Starting out in Model Railways [N Gauge]

[Ayman Ilham]

After browsing model railway stores during my travels, I recently developed an interest for model railways.

As such, I did a bit of research when seeing N Gauge is a thing as well as the usual OO Gauge, and decided N Gauge is the way to go if I were to buy something due to the lack of space (even if this wasn't an issue, I would still want more scale distance coverage) in my house.

Thus, I would like some tips on what sort of layout would be suitable, given I'm after preferably modern era diesel locos and multiple units (mainly post privatisation such as the Class 170, but anything as old as BR Blue 80s will do for me) and focusing on passenger services, not too much on freight.

I would like to be able to make the trains go on journeys to multiple stations (each representing different villages or small towns) allowing a mix of stoppers and express services.

The space I would have could be either 8ft by 2ft (my bedroom floor) or 9ft by 4ft (living room floor) or much bigger if I wanna take it out to the garden. I don't mind starting small and expanding later on.

As I want something I can easily store away when not in use, what sort of design methods should I consider? I'm not too bothered about scenery as I want a portable design so it doesn't get in the way of my house space when not operating.

 

[TheEdge]

Plenty of stock about that'll fit in with the period you want so you are good for that.

You available space is a bit of a problem. 8ft x 2ft is a very good length but is really rather narrow, 9ft x 4ft is a different matter. You'll just fit a double track 180 degree turn in that space using Peco settrack with first and second radius curves, which are the very tightest. You might find first radius curves will cause issues for longer pieces of rolling stock. The garden idea, N isn't really suitable, a colleague used to have an N scale Kato Shinkansen loop in his garden but that was raised up on permanent legs and boards and even then it wasn't reliable and he gave up, even the smallest leaf or snail is enough to send things flying off.

How permanent do you want this to be?

If its something you are happy building and dismantling it possibly using the Kato Unitrack system is an idea for you. N scale modelling is really popular in Japan but a lack of space for many people gets in the way so Unitrack is designed to be laid out on the floor, coffee table, whatever, run for a bit then put away again. Its designed to be put together and pulled apart so you don't get the reliability issues you'd get using other tracks. Its got some quite smart (if sometimes expensive things) like automatic level crossings, signals, scissor crossovers, bridges, raised tracks, stations and so on.

Folded figure of eight layout where the layout crosses itself could be a fun design to fit quite a lot of running distance into the space you have, and easily do-able with Unitrack.

 

[Iskra]

How about starting off with a simple Gaugemaster train set and expanding from there?

There are LNER and GWR IET/Class 800 trainsets available and also Eurostar E300 ones too.

GWR Class 800 IET Premium Train Set

Due to arrive in early 2021, these new N Scale (1:148) 5-car train packs are sure to be popular with modern image modellers. A companion Starter Set for each livery will also be available in the Gaugemaster Collection. The Class 800 AT300 is a bi-mode multiple unit built by Hitachi for Great...

railsofsheffield.com

LNER Class 800 Azuma Premium Train Set

These two new N Scale (1:148) 5-car train packs are sure to be popular with modern image modellers. A companion Starter Set for each livery will also be available in the Gaugemaster Collection.The Class 800 AT300 is a bi-mode multiple unit built by Hitachi for Great Western Railway and London...

railsofsheffield.com

Eurostar E300 12 Car Premium Train Set

Eurostar is an international rail service that connects London with Amsterdam, Brussels, Lille, Paris and Rotterdam. This high-speed line runs through the Channel Tunnel. Since it first ran in 1994, Eurostar has been the only passenger service using the route, travelling from London St Pancras...

railsofsheffield.com

 

[Ayman Ilham]

Plenty of stock about that'll fit in with the period you want so you are good for that.

You available space is a bit of a problem. 8ft x 2ft is a very good length but is really rather narrow, 9ft x 4ft is a different matter. You'll just fit a double track 180 degree turn in that space using Peco settrack with first and second radius curves, which are the very tightest. You might find first radius curves will cause issues for longer pieces of rolling stock. The garden idea, N isn't really suitable, a colleague used to have an N scale Kato Shinkansen loop in his garden but that was raised up on permanent legs and boards and even then it wasn't reliable and he gave up, even the smallest leaf or snail is enough to send things flying off.

How permanent do you want this to be?

If its something you are happy building and dismantling it possibly using the Kato Unitrack system is an idea for you. N scale modelling is really popular in Japan but a lack of space for many people gets in the way so Unitrack is designed to be laid out on the floor, coffee table, whatever, run for a bit then put away again. Its designed to be put together and pulled apart so you don't get the reliability issues you'd get using other tracks. Its got some quite smart (if sometimes expensive things) like automatic level crossings, signals, scissor crossovers, bridges, raised tracks, stations and so on.

Folded figure of eight layout where the layout crosses itself could be a fun design to fit quite a lot of running distance into the space you have, and easily do-able with Unitrack.

Thanks very much for all the tips

What do you think of the Dapol Class 156 as a starter train? Price seems great compared to other Sprinters, at just £128 for the Northern Rail variant based on what I saw in two different model shops. Also, I got my eyes on the Graham Farish 170. As for loco hauled, I feel like using any diesel loco I like the look of (Class 45, 47, 50, 60, 67, etc. whichever I can get cheaper) coupled with a rake of Mk2D-F/Mk3 coaches.

I'm definitely considering Kato Unitrack; saw it in my local model shop and I love how it has a track-bed embedded with it so you can easily lay it down and assemble it together without doing any extras. It certainly seems like the perfect way to easily set up an N-gauge layout anywhere because I don't have room in my house for a permanent layout and of course, the garden is no good cos of the elements. Would Unitrack be suitable to lay outdoors? The smoother paved side of my garden (by the entrance) has about 14ft by 4ft of space so that'll fit in a decent temporary layout when I feel like doing a few running sessions. However, if I can lay Unitrack on grass as well at gradients, then that side is 36ft by 16ft; of course I don't plan to leave the track there.

How about starting off with a simple Gaugemaster train set and expanding from there?

There are LNER and GWR IET/Class 800 trainsets available and also Eurostar E300 ones too.

GWR Class 800 IET Premium Train Set

Due to arrive in early 2021, these new N Scale (1:148) 5-car train packs are sure to be popular with modern image modellers. A companion Starter Set for each livery will also be available in the Gaugemaster Collection. The Class 800 AT300 is a bi-mode multiple unit built by Hitachi for Great...

railsofsheffield.com

LNER Class 800 Azuma Premium Train Set

These two new N Scale (1:148) 5-car train packs are sure to be popular with modern image modellers. A companion Starter Set for each livery will also be available in the Gaugemaster Collection.The Class 800 AT300 is a bi-mode multiple unit built by Hitachi for Great Western Railway and London...

railsofsheffield.com

Eurostar E300 12 Car Premium Train Set

Eurostar is an international rail service that connects London with Amsterdam, Brussels, Lille, Paris and Rotterdam. This high-speed line runs through the Channel Tunnel. Since it first ran in 1994, Eurostar has been the only passenger service using the route, travelling from London St Pancras...

railsofsheffield.com

I like the GWR IET set; given the 5-car train itself is £178 that means just £34 for everything else, which seems like a good deal considering the controller itself is like £64 or summat so you pretty much get the tracks for free. I was more into regional-style trains a' la Sprinter or Turbostar, but I suppose the IET could cater to the express part of my fleet.

 

[TheEdge]

What do you think of the Dapol Class 156 as a starter train? Price seems great compared to other Sprinters, at just £128 for the Northern Rail variant based on what I saw in two different model shops.

It would be fine, nothing is more or less suitable as a first train. You do need to consider a controller which you don't seem to be doing. The Gaugemaster branded Kato sets would be a really good idea. You get a loop of Unitrack, a controller and a train at a reasonable price.

Also, I got my eyes on the Graham Farish 170. As for loco hauled, I feel like using any diesel loco I like the look of (Class 45, 47, 50, 60, 67, etc. whichever I can get cheaper) coupled with a rake of Mk2D-F/Mk3 coaches.

Remember to keep an eye on the second hand market for stuff. There's a few Facebook groups that are well policed for scams and with reasonable prices. EBay can often be a bit excessive price wise.

I'm definitely considering Kato Unitrack; saw it in my local model shop and I love how it has a track-bed embedded with it so you can easily lay it down and assemble it together without doing any extras. It certainly seems like the perfect way to easily set up an N-gauge layout anywhere because I don't have room in my house for a permanent layout and of course, the garden is no good cos of the elements.

I think from what it sounds like you want Unitrack is probably the best and really only solution. If you use normal PECO track it'll very quickly start to fall apart if you are laying it and lifting it all the time.

Would Unitrack be suitable to lay outdoors? The smoother paved side of my garden (by the entrance) has about 14ft by 4ft of space so that'll fit in a decent temporary layout when I feel like doing a few running sessions. However, if I can lay Unitrack on grass as well at gradients, then that side is 36ft by 16ft; of course I don't plan to leave the track there.

Honestly N isn't suitable for outdoors. It really is just too small, especially on the ground. All you need is a pebble, or a big bug or a leaf and you'll get derailments onto concrete and that'll damage your stock. They are quite delicate internally so if you get anything natural inside you'll end up ruining stuff. Also it won't be level at all and you'll get poor running, derailments, couplings will come apart. It isn't a good idea.

OO is the smallest practical outdoor scale and even then it's not something you'd run on the ground, you'd have it raised.

 

[Cowley]

Superb advice from @TheEdge as usual. I couldn’t put it any better than that.

I only got into N gauge about three years ago and I know what I wanted to achieve when I started with it. Much as I like huge long running lines it surprising what you can do with not too much space. I think it’s about playing to its strengths but running it outside probably isn’t one of them!

@Ayman Ilham - How about sketching out a couple of plans and posting them on here for us to come up with a few helpful ideas maybe?

 

[REVUpminster]

I would say with N gauge is to get the track right before anything else. It is less forgiving than 00 gauge.

 

[Ayman Ilham]

I think from what it sounds like you want Unitrack is probably the best and really only solution. If you use normal PECO track it'll very quickly start to fall apart if you are laying it and lifting it all the time.

Honestly N isn't suitable for outdoors. It really is just too small, especially on the ground. All you need is a pebble, or a big bug or a leaf and you'll get derailments onto concrete and that'll damage your stock. They are quite delicate internally so if you get anything natural inside you'll end up ruining stuff. Also it won't be level at all and you'll get poor running, derailments, couplings will come apart. It isn't a good idea.

OO is the smallest practical outdoor scale and even then it's not something you'd run on the ground, you'd have it raised.

Well, I guess I'll stick to my living room floor then. I don't need any additional surfaces over carpet with the Kato Unitrack, right? PECO is deffo out of the question when you put it that way.

Superb advice from @TheEdge as usual. I couldn’t put it any better than that.

I only got into N gauge about three years ago and I know what I wanted to achieve when I started with it. Much as I like huge long running lines it surprising what you can do with not too much space. I think it’s about playing to its strengths but running it outside probably isn’t one of them!

@Ayman Ilham - How about sketching out a couple of plans and posting them on here for us to come up with a few helpful ideas maybe?

They've definitely been really helpful I'll see what I can do when I'm finished with work for the week. Which software would let me visualise the available track pieces within the appropriate scale so I know what space I'm working with?

 

[Cowley]

Ah now software is definitely someone else’s department (despite appearances)! I believe Scarm is a thing though?

If it’s any help I started completely from scratch and explained how I went about it in this thread.
You might appreciate some of the 1980s/90s stuff too.

 

[Ianigsy]

I’m using A1 size foam board - 4 pieces for £10 in Hobbycraft- to set up a running-in track and start marking out a simple layout which will fit on my dining table.

I have a Dapol 156 and my main reservation is that it does run differently on train set curves depending on which vehicle is leading. In the end I detached the unpowered trailer for running in because it derailed too often when the powered vehicle was pushing it.

 

[Cowley]

I’m using A1 size foam board - 4 pieces for £10 in Hobbycraft- to set up a running-in track and start marking out a simple layout which will fit on my dining table.

I have a Dapol 156 and my main reservation is that it does run differently on train set curves depending on which vehicle is leading. In the end I detached the unpowered trailer for running in because it derailed too often when the powered vehicle was pushing it.

I’ve got a Farish 2 car 108 which I run with a Dapol 121 Bubble Car and it never runs properly when it’s pushing. I just run it with the powered section at the front these days to minimise stress.

 

[Ayman Ilham]

Ah now software is definitely someone else’s department (despite appearances)! I believe Scarm is a thing though?

If it’s any help I started completely from scratch and explained how I went about it in this thread.
You might appreciate some of the 1980s/90s stuff too.

Had a quick nosey; loved how you made buildings out of paper, might do scenery that way cos that'll cut costs significantly. I'd rather focus spending on more tracks and trains. Cardboard platforms are also something I have in mind. I could probably see if I can sketch a layout that fits 4 or 5 fictional towns. Even though the modern stuff (especially the 170) is what got me into trains in the first place, I have developed an interest for the BR Blue diesels, especially the Class 50.

One idea that came into my mind is a loop with a figure 8 track in the middle (small town stations made for regional DMUs along these sections), then two branches off that at either end with terminus stations representing hub towns or cities long enough for 5 car IETs given I may start with the Gaugemaster Class 800 set. Of course, I'd only need a backdrop and a few buildings to represent each town.

 

[malc-c]

You available space is a bit of a problem. 8ft x 2ft is a very good length but is really rather narrow, 9ft x 4ft is a different matter. You'll just fit a double track 180 degree turn in that space using Peco settrack with first and second radius curves, which are the very tightest. You might find first radius curves will cause issues for longer pieces of rolling stock.

I'm building a new layout and have 244cm x 75cm board (8ft x 2' 6" in old money) and used Peco flexible track for the curves. Farrish MK1s, class 31, class 25 and a 33 have no issues with the radius of the curves. Not sure how more modern stock like IETs etc would fair.

 

[Gloster]

Peco do a number of track planning booklets, some specifically for N-gauge. It is possible that none of the ones they include may suit you, but they will give you an idea as to what is practical and what factors/constraints you need to consider.

 

[TheEdge]

I'm building a new layout and have 244cm x 75cm board (8ft x 2' 6" in old money) and used Peco flexible track for the curves. Farrish MK1s, class 31, class 25 and a 33 have no issues with the radius of the curves. Not sure how more modern stock like IETs etc would fair.

You've got that little bit extra width, which may even fit a 3rd radius curve but it'll make the difference. Those locos are all quite short wheelbase so less liable to suffer over tight trackwork

 

[Ayman Ilham]

Peco do a number of track planning booklets, some specifically for N-gauge. It is possible that none of the ones they include may suit you, but they will give you an idea as to what is practical and what factors/constraints you need to consider.

Will have a look next time I pop into a model shop; I am inclined towards the Kato Unitrack though, as its much more practical for what I plan to do.

 

[REVUpminster]

For track design use https://www.anyrail.com/en. You can use the trial version free which limits the amount of pieces. The flexible track can be stretched and goes red but it let's you use more points. Kato unitrack is there.

https://www.anyrail.com/en/library/0020_N/0090_Kato/0010_Unitrack

 

[Ayman Ilham]

You've got that little bit extra width, which may even fit a 3rd radius curve but it'll make the difference. Those locos are all quite short wheelbase so less liable to suffer over tight trackwork

For track design use https://www.anyrail.com/en. You can use the trial version free which limits the amount of pieces. The flexible track can be stretched and goes red but it let's you use more points. Kato unitrack is there.

https://www.anyrail.com/en/library/0020_N/0090_Kato/0010_Unitrack

@Ayman Ilham - How about sketching out a couple of plans and posting them on here for us to come up with a few helpful ideas maybe?

I've measured my bedroom floor area and it's 8ft by 2ft10in (just under 3ft) or 2400x860mm if you want metric; put that into AnyRail and found there's plenty of space to fit a decent layout. Had a play around with various Kato Unitrack pieces and came up with a basic structure (middle parts still incomplete) below when I hit the free 50-piece limit. The sidings sticking out of the loop will all be terminus stations representing three different towns/cities. Within the loop would be stations for smaller towns, but I still haven't figured out the right track piece combination to allow a decent figure-8 within the inner-circle.



Okay, let's be a bit more realistic ... here is what the starter set loop (with all the appropriate track pieces) would look like within the space I got; seems to fit comfortably


Layout 1:
Now we got that visualised, I decide to add four left-turnout points (EP718-15L) going in and out of the loop on both sides.

Afterwards, I add an extra 14x S248 straights; 6x R282-45 radii; 2x R718-15 radii; and 4x R249-45 radii to make the following:

This actually looks like a really fun layout and actually opens up a massive variety of runs; a possible station layout could be:


Layout 2:
Let's try an alternative; start by lengthening the loop with 8 extra 248mm straights, which would utilise the full length of the workspace.

Now to add an extra 15x S248; 1x S62; 2x EP718-15L; 5x R249-45; 2x R715-15; and 1x R348-30 for some variety:

This also gives plenty of scope for a wide variety of runs, plus straights long enough for a 5-car IET to feel right at home.

Overall, I'm pleased with the number of possibilities. Please feel free to suggest any other layout arrangements I can try, especially those who know the most cost-effective expansions. What do you think? @TheEdge @Cowley

 

[TheEdge]

If I'm honest your layout 1 design has issues. Its not a great use of the quite a decent space you have and if you are only using one controller and planning on using the rails to conduct (presumably you are if you are planning on taking this apart all the time) you are going to have quite a few dead areas and bits of track you won't actually be able to use. You also will find in the area you've labelled "terminus" the two lines are far too close, two trains would be in contact, if you could even fit the track in if you account for the plastic ballast Unitrack has.

Layout 2 is a much much better start. You could try and make a figure 8 based on that long siding you have in the middle, run it over a bridge and connect it to the top somehow. There is something to be said for a simple double track loop with some sidings and some passing loops. Don't run before you can walk and all that

 

[Ayman Ilham]

If I'm honest your layout 1 design has issues. Its not a great use of the quite a decent space you have and if you are only using one controller and planning on using the rails to conduct (presumably you are if you are planning on taking this apart all the time) you are going to have quite a few dead areas and bits of track you won't actually be able to use. You also will find in the area you've labelled "terminus" the two lines are far too close, two trains would be in contact, if you could even fit the track in if you account for the plastic ballast Unitrack has.

Layout 2 is a much much better start. You could try and make a figure 8 based on that long siding you have in the middle, run it over a bridge and connect it to the top somehow. There is something to be said for a simple double track loop with some sidings and some passing loops. Don't run before you can walk and all that

Thanks for your feedback so layout 1 is definitely out! I'm still trying to figure out what combination of pieces will pull off that figure-8, especially where to position the crossover, such that it links with the outer loop through points. How flexible is Unitrack to set on gradients? Also, do I have to buy switches separately from points, and does one switch suffice for many points or is it one each?

 

[TheEdge]

Unitrack do riser sets and bridges so that's the way I'd cross them rather than a flat crossing.

It'll be one switch per point.

 

[Ayman Ilham]

Unitrack do riser sets and bridges so that's the way I'd cross them rather than a flat crossing.

It'll be one switch per point.

Ah, so adding more regular track pieces to lengthen the layout (straights and curves which are around £7 per pack of 4) but the moment you start adding points is where it really gets expensive (around £30 per junction including the switch). Which kits are best value for money to expand the starter set? I'll likely buy a few 4-packs of S248 (I believe those are the longest straights you can get) alongside it to lengthen the overall layout.

 

[TheEdge]

Unfortunately that is always the way.

Honestly, I don't know. I really only use it to let me run my stock on the floor in a big oval in my flat. Although your questions have made me think about getting some more and setting up a bit more of a layout

 

[Ayman Ilham]

Managed to do a basic figure-8 within my desired loop, including a viaduct which I would incline up and down to cross over; of course, I hit the 50-part limit so can't go much further.

Here's what I would have wanted eventually. Would prefer to use points as sparingly as possible, but I think crossovers might work better than turnouts.

What do you think of this idea? @TheEdge Please feel free to suggest what points/junctions would be more suitable as well as their positioning.

 

[Cowley]

Managed to do a basic figure-8 within my desired loop, including a viaduct which I would incline up and down to cross over; of course, I hit the 50-part limit so can't go much further.
View attachment 116863
Here's what I would have wanted eventually. Would prefer to use points as sparingly as possible, but I think crossovers might work better than turnouts.
View attachment 116867
What do you think of this idea? @TheEdge Please feel free to suggest what points/junctions would be more suitable as well as their positioning.

Sorry I haven’t replied for a while. I’ve never actually used this system before so I’m learning about it here myself!

 

[TheEdge]

@Ayman Ilham you seem desperate to use the scissors crossover piece so in your first layout you could use it in the top left so you could swap trains between the two loops.

Sidings can really be added anywhere, I'd maybe have them as a little fan towards the bottom running alongside the main line, maybe even have them as loops.

I'd still caution you on running before you can walk. The amount of crossings and points you want to add might start causing issues with control and short circuits. @Cowley might be better placed to advise there as it's been a while since I had to worry about wiring.

 

[Ayman Ilham]

@Ayman Ilham you seem desperate to use the scissors crossover piece so in your first layout you could use it in the top left so you could swap trains between the two loops.

Sidings can really be added anywhere, I'd maybe have them as a little fan towards the bottom running alongside the main line, maybe even have them as loops.

I'd still caution you on running before you can walk. The amount of crossings and points you want to add might start causing issues with control and short circuits. @Cowley might be better placed to advise there as it's been a while since I had to worry about wiring.

How about a double-loop like this? Btw, in what ways can points and crossings cause short circuits?

 

[Cowley]

How about a double-loop like this? Btw, in what ways can points and crossings cause short circuits?
View attachment 116996

You’d be fine with that. It’s just if you crossed a line diagonally from the top straight to the bottom straight that you’d have issues, because you’d then have the positive and negative rails meeting each other head on if you understand what I mean?

 

[Ayman Ilham]

You’d be fine with that. It’s just if you crossed a line diagonally from the top straight to the bottom straight that you’d have issues, because you’d then have the positive and negative rails meeting each other head on if you understand what I mean?

If I bought the Kato M2 starter set, that'll come with the two points I need; would it be worth buying that instead of the Class 800 set given I'm more into Era 8 and 9 diesels?

 

[Cowley]

If I bought the Kato M2 starter set, that'll come with the two points I need; would it be worth buying that instead of the Class 800 set given I'm more into Era 8 and 9 diesels?

Personally I’d get a starter track set and buy something I actually wanted if I was in your position. I know the 800 is a nice model but it strikes me that there’s probably a loco out there that’s made you think “I’d love a model like that” hence asking on here?
If you’re spending that kind of money I reckon it’s got to be better buying something that’s going to be making up a part of your eventual required fleet - like an era 8/9 class 37 or 47 for example.