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London - Vienna - Venice - London story

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Sieni

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As the forum helped us out with a couple of questions planning our recent trip, I thought I'd let you know how it all went. Who knows, there may be something of use or interest ...

We started off Eurostar St Pancras to Paris. Nothing much to note there, it was on time.

Next up was a Lyria train to Zurich, from Gare du Lyon. We took RER line D from Gare du Nord to Gare du Lyon. As usual I'd built in a significant contingency time and had over an hour to kill, so we waited in Starbucks in Hall 2. We've done this before. Starbucks isn't too crowded and has a big departures screen. It also sells coffee. The train to Zurich, Lyria 2919 was again uneventful and comfortable and we zoomed through pleasant French countryside, then trundled more sedately once we crossed into Switzerland.

Next morning it got interesting. Our ÖBB Railjet RJ 161 from Zurich was showing "Ausfall" - cancelled. Fortunately the info office at Zurich is open at 6am on a Sunday, and the lady was very helpful (after ticking us off for not taking a number for the non existent queue). There were scheduled engineering works in Liechtenstein. So we took a more northerly, and slower, route to Innsbruck and picked up a Vienna train there. All the on-train staff were helpful. The journey to Innsbruck was very beautiful. We were fortunate that there was a Vienna train waiting to go from the adjacent platform at Innsbruck so there was no waiting needed, and we were only an hour or so late into Vienna. This wasn't a problem as we had no plans for the rest of the day.

Now, I bought that ticket from RailEurope, and it didn't give me a seat reservation at the time, despite having selected that specific train, but I thought nothing of it. So something, somewhere, was aware of the planned works. It would have been nice to have been warned, but by whom? RailEurope? ÖBB? Anyway, no harm done and lesson learned that if you can't get a reservation when buying online, something is up.

In Vienna we bought 7-day tickets for the metro and trams from the machine. Very easy. Once you have validated your tickets to start the clock, there's no need to use them again unless an inspector appears (which didn't happen). There are no automatic gates on the Vienna metro.

Next stop, Venice. ÖBB had warned me by email that there was a strike in Italy on our day of travel, but were vague about the implications. So I went to the Hauptbahnhof at Vienna and asked. The guy there seemed very stressed out, dealing with multiple people at once. He told me direct trains were guaranteed. I wasn't convinced but as it turned out he was right. Our train RJ131 from Vienna at 06:40 ran to time and was another beautiful journey.

In Venice we bought multi-day tickets for the Vaporetto boats. Again an easy purchase from a machine. Despite only being a paper ticket they work on a touch-in basis to open the barriers at some of the stops (others you just walk in). Make sure you don't try to go in through the exit. It doesn't work!

Now for the home leg. We got the NJ 236 Night Jet from Venice to Stuttgart. It was a bit alarming to arrive at the station and see that the train is advertised on the board as destination Vienna, and no mention of Stuttgart at all on the departure board. I figured that it would be split somewhere and this was actually the case (it split at Salzburg, with the front of the train turning east and heading to Vienna and the rear with us in it going west to Stuttgart) but all the same it was a relief to see the "Stuttgart" paper label on our train door.

The sleeper was distinctly roomier than the Caledonian sleeper that we used last year and very comfortable. The steward asked us if our toilet was working (it was) and said he'd provide a form for us to get compensation if it wasn't, so they must have been having problems. We slept well until about 04:30 when there was a loud knock on the door and it was the border police (we were in or near Salzburg about to cross from Austria to Germany) asking for passports and ids. Fortunately our passports were to hand and the policewoman returned them after a few minutes.

We were about 20 minutes late into Stuttgart, but we had plenty of slack built into the schedule so we still had two hours to kill in Stuttgart. Stuttgart station is a building site and there is little to no seating. It's quite a long walk (several minutes - it passed the time) out of the station down a long ramp where we found a cafe to sit in for a while. It was when I saw a hoarding with "Stuttgart 21" on it that I recalled seeing a programme on TV over a year ago about this building project and how it wasn't going entirely to plan.

Next leg was Deutsche Bahn ICE9574 Stuttgart to Paris Est. DB have not been kind to us in the past, so we had a 3 hour buffer to get from Paris Est to Paris Nord and the check in to Eurostar. As things turned out we needed some of it, as the train was 25 minutes late into Paris Est.

We took the Metro line 5 one stop from Paris Est to Nord, partly because it was easier than walking with luggage, and partly to use up some of our stock of T-Plus tickets before they go extinct.

That left us with a long wait at Eurostar Paris. We asked about bumping us to an earlier train, but the fee was €50 each, and as it turned out they didn't have spare Standard Premier places anyway so we didn't do that. I don't particularly like the Eurostar terminals, they are always so crowded, worse than the airports the we go out of our way to avoid. Eurostar into London was a few minutes late but nothing worth mentioning.

All in all everything went moderately smoothly. All tickets were first class, except for Eurostar which was Standard Premier and the Nightjet which was a cabin. All seats were reserved except for the Zurich-Vienna leg as mentioned above. We had generous contingency built in for changing trains but generally didn't need it.

Thanks to all on here who gave advice while we were planning this jaunt.
 
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rvdborgt

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Now, I bought that ticket from RailEurope, and it didn't give me a seat reservation at the time, despite having selected that specific train, but I thought nothing of it. So something, somewhere, was aware of the planned works. It would have been nice to have been warned, but by whom? RailEurope? ÖBB? Anyway, no harm done and lesson learned that if you can't get a reservation when buying online, something is up.
That is certainly the case. I think ÖBB would have sent a warning e-mail if you had booked there.
 

Sieni

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That is certainly the case. I think ÖBB would have sent a warning e-mail if you had booked there.
Indeed ÖBB did send me a warning about the strikes in Italy on my Vienna-Venice journey, so top marks to them there. But the problem was I never had a reservation on my Zurich-Vienna journey so ÖBB didn't know to contact me. RailEurope sold me a ticket for that train with unreserved seating. If there's any fault in this it's on me for accepting unreserved seating.

As it all turned out OK, I'm not too bothered. I think there was an unusual combination of circumstances.
 

Wilts Wanderer

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The lack of a proper Informed Traveller equivalent in Europe has always seemed strange. One can literally buy tickets for trains that are planned to be disrupted or not run at all, but the first you discover is when your train is delayed/cancelled/rerouted. Even UK rail does a better job than this.
 

30907

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Indeed ÖBB did send me a warning about the strikes in Italy on my Vienna-Venice journey, so top marks to them there. But the problem was I never had a reservation on my Zurich-Vienna journey so ÖBB didn't know to contact me. RailEurope sold me a ticket for that train with unreserved seating. If there's any fault in this it's on me for accepting unreserved seating.

As it all turned out OK, I'm not too bothered. I think there was an unusual combination of circumstances.
RJ services are not compulsory-reservation (the same applies across most of Europe) - did RE offer you an optional reservation?

Engineering work timetables are often published quite late - I am surprised RE don't advise rechecking before travel.

Glad the rest of the trip went smoothly though!
 

poffle

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In the old days the car attendant would collect all the passports from the sleeping car /couchette passengers and deal with all the border guards during the night. Passports returned in the morning.

We may be going back in that direction.

Though I do remember once the Danish immigration once stamping my EU passport on a Munich - Copenhagen night train on the Puttgarten - Rødby train ferry. The scandis may have needed to hold on to their passports for duty free booze shopping on the ferry.
 

norbitonflyer

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Having done London - Paris - Zurich, and back, myself earlier this month, I agree with all that was said aboyut those legs, (including youyr choice of where to wait at Gare de Lyon) but we were pleasantly surprised that the Gare du Nord Eurostar terminal was much less frenetic than we recalled from prevkious trips, one as recent as last year.

One thing that surprised me was that the TGV Lyria in both directions went via Strasbourg (albeit non stop between Paris and Mulhouse) and not via Dijon as I had expected (and as I'm sure it has done in the past) - and that being the case, why it goes from the Gare de Lyon rather than the Gare de l'Est which is the usual station for the Strasbourg line.
 

signed

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One thing that surprised me was that the TGV Lyria in both directions went via Strasbourg (albeit non stop between Paris and Mulhouse) and not via Dijon as I had expected (and as I'm sure it has done in the past)
The only route into Basel from France is through Mulhouse. Dijon-serving trains are the Lausanne-bound ones usually.
 

stuu

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I did a big interrail trip this Summer, and booked several trains a few months in advance. The times of one route (Vienna-Cologne) were changed three times before departure. Twice they just said the booking was cancelled and to find an alternative route. After advice on here it turned out that bookings hadn't been cancelled if the train number hadn't changed, but that wasn't the information I was given.

It really should be possible to be better than that, with automatic rebooking as long as there is less than an hour or two's difference in timings
 

signed

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and that being the case, why it goes from the Gare de Lyon rather than the Gare de l'Est which is the usual station for the Strasbourg line
They do actually run through Dijon, without stopping, so Gare de Lyon it is. They used to run from Gare de l'Est in the past (through Strasbourg and Colmar) before the LGV Est
 

rvdborgt

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I did a big interrail trip this Summer, and booked several trains a few months in advance. The times of one route (Vienna-Cologne) were changed three times before departure. Twice they just said the booking was cancelled and to find an alternative route. After advice on here it turned out that bookings hadn't been cancelled if the train number hadn't changed, but that wasn't the information I was given.

It really should be possible to be better than that, with automatic rebooking as long as there is less than an hour or two's difference in timings
Operators must offer a 3-fold choice when passengers will have at least a one hour delay. Rebooking is just one of those choices (and in principle for the next available service). I don't think it's a good idea for the operator to make a choice for the passenger. Instead, it should be made easier for passengers to make that choice themselves.
 

DanielB

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Operators must offer a 3-fold choice when passengers will have at least a one hour delay. Rebooking is just one of those choices (and in principle for the next available service). I don't think it's a good idea for the operator to make a choice for the passenger. Instead, it should be made easier for passengers to make that choice themselves.
Would agree with that, and especially DB should also start giving alternatives which makes sense as a big first step in making it easier...
When my connection from Vienna via Würzburg to Hannover was altered last summer, I got an alternative itinerary taking "just" 5 hours longer with all regional trains from Würzburg to Hannover instead of the obvious choice to take the next ICE.

But it all starts with not having to find out what has actually changed yourself.
 

stuu

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Operators must offer a 3-fold choice when passengers will have at least a one hour delay. Rebooking is just one of those choices (and in principle for the next available service). I don't think it's a good idea for the operator to make a choice for the passenger. Instead, it should be made easier for passengers to make that choice themselves.
Fair point, yes there should be a choice of a) accept alternative b) choose a different itinerary or c) refund

One of DB's suggestions for an alternative route from Nuremburg to Brussels was all sorts of regional trains heading via Erfurt and eventually ending up with a bus to Liege and a 3 hour wait there in the middle of the night... so I would definitely have wanted the choice of turning that down!
 

rvdborgt

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One of DB's suggestions for an alternative route from Nuremburg to Brussels was all sorts of regional trains heading via Erfurt and eventually ending up with a bus to Liege and a 3 hour wait there in the middle of the night... so I would definitely have wanted the choice of turning that down!
DB have been known to propose all sorts of garbage options, including options for which ticket validity is questionnable. As long as they're not capable of offering something acceptable, they'd better stick to saying "Please consult our timetable to find an alternative".
 

Ringo2112

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I wanted to take the NJ from Venice to Vienna. When the train showed up that night, there were no sleepers avaliable as I had booked a single compartment. They said everyone who had a sleeper to Vienna had to ride in coach overnight. I told the woman conductor that I would go to Germany instead. ( they had sleepers to Germany) She seemed surprised and asked " You want to go to Germany?" I said yes, since I was traveling on a Eurail Globall pass and had nothing booked in Vienna and I had never ridden a night train before. It seemed to surprise her I asked and she said " Sorry, Germany sleepers are full". I really wonder if they were full. Anyhow, I jumped off in Venice Mestre as I wasn't going to ride coach overnight. OBB gave me a voucher. I didn't use it this summer, but they said it's good for ten years.
 

rvdborgt

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I wanted to take the NJ from Venice to Vienna. When the train showed up that night, there were no sleepers avaliable as I had booked a single compartment. They said everyone who had a sleeper to Vienna had to ride in coach overnight. I told the woman conductor that I would go to Germany instead. ( they had sleepers to Germany) She seemed surprised and asked " You want to go to Germany?" I said yes, since I was traveling on a Eurail Globall pass and had nothing booked in Vienna and I had never ridden a night train before. It seemed to surprise her I asked and she said " Sorry, Germany sleepers are full". I really wonder if they were full. Anyhow, I jumped off in Venice Mestre as I wasn't going to ride coach overnight. OBB gave me a voucher. I didn't use it this summer, but they said it's good for ten years.
The sleepers are often fully booked, especially on the trains to/from Italy, so t's quite possible they were full. As to the voucher: you can also have a cash reimbursement if you want, but you get 10% extra with a voucher. Did they also reimburse for the extra night in Venice?
 

Ringo2112

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The sleepers are often fully booked, especially on the trains to/from Italy, so t's quite possible they were full. As to the voucher: you can also have a cash reimbursement if you want, but you get 10% extra with a voucher. Did they also reimburse for the extra night in Venice?
No, they did not. Hotel cost me 120.00....Plus I was stuck in Venice one more night because of a rail strike in Italy. I didn't want to go back to Vienna on a day train. I came down that way. After two nights in Venice, I then took a train Venice to Milan and then to Olten Switzerland.
 

U-Bahnfreund

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The lack of a proper Informed Traveller equivalent in Europe has always seemed strange.
What's "Informed Traveller" please? Considering you spelt it with capital letters, it seems to be a specific thing.
I used to work for a German railway company, and it really frustrated me how little care is given to good passenger information, and how bad some of the IT systems are, even if you wanted to do it better, unfortunately.
 
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Wilts Wanderer

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What's "Informed Traveller" please? Considering you spelt it with capital letters, it seems to be a specific thing.
I used to work for a German railway company, and it really frustrated me how little care is given to good passenger information, and how bad some of the IT systems are, even if you wanted to do it better, unfortunately.

It is a process intended to ensure that customers receive the correct travel information at the point of booking tickets, including details of any timing changes to booked services etc. Essentially, to function properly it means that all amended schedules must be in place and all planned engineering works agreed no later than the ‘booking horizon’, i.e. when ticket sales for a particular day open. By the UK rail industry’s ‘Network Code’ this was traditionally T-12 weeks; more recently it has become possible to book further out and in theory you are notified if the timings of your journey are subsequently altered. Also a lot of engineering work has been planned at a shorter timescale; in theory this means the booking horizon may have to be shortened but of course this impacts advance ticket sales.

Its an imperfect system that tries to balance the need to sell advance tickets, provide accurate information to customers at the point of sale (including providing seat reservations) and ensure that the infrastructure maintainer can undertake their tasks effectively. When it functions properly there should never be instances of trains being delayed by engineering work, as in theory schedules / bus services / resource diagrams are all amended in advance to take account of whatever closures are in place on any given date.

Hope that helps!
 
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To add: 'Informed Traveller' is a GB-only concept.

Unfortunately, lack of regulatory enforcement there means that possessions are often only decided and loaded into the timetable system after the T-12 cutoff and the passenger must always check the journey if travelling at weekends or over holiday periods so as to find out what is actually running. The Informed Traveller idea is a good one, but is just not being applied in practice on many lines nor has been for many years. Perhaps the new Government can sort it out!
 

norbitonflyer

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The only route into Basel from France is through Mulhouse. Dijon-serving trains are the Lausanne-bound ones usually.
Whether via Dijon or Strasbourg, they would go through Mulhouse to get to Basel.
Some years ago (2018 I think) I was on a TGV Lyria which went from Basel to Paris via the German side of the Rhine. I can't now recall the exact route (and had no map with me) but I saw a tram-train at one point so may have been near Karlsruhe?
 

rvdborgt

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Whether via Dijon or Strasbourg, they would go through Mulhouse to get to Basel.
Some years ago (2018 I think) I was on a TGV Lyria which went from Basel to Paris via the German side of the Rhine. I can't now recall the exact route (and had no map with me) but I saw a tram-train at one point so may have been near Karlsruhe?
That would have been Mulhouse. Basel to Paris does not go via Germany.
 

nwales58

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One thing that surprised me was that the TGV Lyria in both directions went via Strasbourg (albeit non stop between Paris and Mulhouse) and not via Dijon as I had expected (and as I'm sure it has done in the past) - and that being the case, why it goes from the Gare de Lyon rather than the Gare de l'Est which is the usual station for the Strasbourg line.
Was it on time?
The non-stop Mulhouse-Gare de Lyon take 2h50. Although Strasbourg-Gare de l'Est is 1h45 non-stop, from LGV Est you would have the extra distance around the Interconnection to get to LGV Sud-Est to get into GdL so I guess it would take a bit longer.

Some years ago (2018 I think) I was on a TGV Lyria which went from Basel to Paris via the German side of the Rhine. I can't now recall the exact route (and had no map with me) but I saw a tram-train at one point so may have been near Karlsruhe?
There has been a Freiburg-im-Breisgau extension of one of the Strasbourg TGVs for years but that turns off at Appenweier so not Karlsruhe. You might have seen Strasbourg trams on the way in from Kehl.
 
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