Recommendations for an Eastern European country to visit for rail travel

[Amateurish]

Last year I spent a long weekend in Czechia visiting some fantastic scenic rail lines. I got lots of great recommendations from this forum.

I'm planning a similar trip this year (June) and would love recommendations for where to go next.

Can anyone make a recommendation based on scenic lines, comfortable rolling stock (ideally loco hauled) and a good network?

Looking at the following as possibilities:

Slovakia
Hungary
Romania
Bulgaria
Serbia
Croatia
Finland
Greece
Baltics

Cheers!

 

[30907]

Slovakia is a few years behind CZ but pretty similar. It's the only one I have recent experience of - do the secondary line Banska Bystrica-Margecany even though it's now a unit, the main line through Poprad and the Tatra narrow gauge as a minimum.

 

[SandsofEss]

Slovakia's system is very good. Modernising rapidly, but still some interest to be found. Affordable, and the ZSSK website is easy to use. I agree with the suggestions above.

I can also recommend Romania and Bulgaria. Romania is a few years behind Slovakia. Trains are slower and less reliable, but it too has beautiful routes and lots of variety within the country. The main line between Brasov and Bucuresti is particularly scenic, and the routes that cross the border (e.g. with Bulgaria at Giurgiu or with Hungary at Lokoshaza) are very interesting.

Bulgaria is the least modernised of the lot, but I found it the most interesting as a result. The rolling stock and infrastructure is fairly decayed, and hints at former grandeur (a sense you'll get from the wider country as you look out of the train window). The website is also a lot less user-friendly, but the network itself is extensive, and connects lots of interesting routes and places.

If you're a fan of night trains, all three countries operate domestic sleeper trains that are excellent and astonishing value.

 

[gazthomas]

I went to Bulgaria last autumn, as mentioned above, the rolling stock goes from poor to dilapidated, though the scenery particularly in the north is nice. The remaining narrow gauge line from Septemvri and the broad use of ex-BR electric locomotives on freight increases the interest. Services are somewhat infrequent though

 

[jamesontheroad]

One of my most interesting multi-day journeys was from Sweden to Athens, via Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria.

Agree re: night trains: the Budapest-Brasov Corona is cheap, comfortable and perfectly time for dinner in the restaurant car and a good long sleep.

Romania is interesting because of the huge variety of rolling stock, including locomotive hauled rakes and second-hand rolling multiples from France, Germany and even Denmark. But it was the most depressing bit of my journey, a desperately filthy country with piles of trash alongside almost every kilometer of railway I travelled, even in the remote countryside.

Bulgaria is fascinating for the reasons stated above.

The Balkans are not so train friendly and Greece’s network is still reeling from the crash last year. I’d focus on Hungary, Romania and maybe Bulgaria.

Finland is an odd one in your list… much less variety in terms of rolling stock and the landscape might get repetitive. But VR double decker night trains and daytime Intercity trains are exceptionally good, with nice restaurant cars. Oddball diesel railcars link the smaller cities across the middle of the country on PSO routes.

 

[gazthomas]

While not in Eastern Europe, I would also recommend Portugal. Much less developed than Spain's railways with old locomotives and rolling stock. The Douro Valley line with its 1400 locomotives is fantastic and Portugal's prices are more like Eastern Europe than many other European countries these days.

 

[gordonthemoron]

Romania is good, but my favourite is Poland

 

[Amateurish]

Thank you for all those suggestions. We are looking to travel somewhere new, hence the list of places. We have visited Portugal, Poland etc before. We did a trip around Denmark Norway and Sweden, but not yet Finland.

 

[Alfonso]

I very much enjoyed travelling around Lake Balaton in Hungary last year. Trains were reasonable, wine verging on free.

 

[LNW-GW Joint]

Romania is very interesting, but unmodernised railway infrastructure (most of it) is in a bad way.
Platforms with broken slabs, steps and subways being obstacle courses, and platform seats with collapsed seats!
But a magical landscape in Transylvania.
There are several major route upgrades in progress, with electrification across the Hungarian border via Oradea/Cluj.
Some of the resultant single-line working over temporary track and bridges can be hair-raising!

 

[Belperpete]

If going to Hungary, a trip on the Children's Railway and Cogwheel Railways in Budapest are a must.

 

[Zamracene749]

Hungary has a fantastic network, plenty of loco hauled and some beautiful cities to visit. Balaton, Gyor-Veszprem, the lines to Balassagyamat, the lines around Pecs are probably the prettiest i've ridden there, along with the ride over the high Hungarian plains from Debrecen to Eger. The whole country is now covered by a good value day/monthly ticket that also includes Volansbusz interurban coaches.
Romania is just scenically stunning, any of the services in mountainous areas will have you gawping out of the windows! Suceava to Cluj, Any of the lines out of Sibiu, Brasov, Sighisoara, Bistrita etc. The country itself (if not the railway) is modernising and cleaning itself up very quickly. 5 years ago you would have seen stray dogs, horses and carts, ancient cars, lots of rubbish (in certain districts). Nowadays, it's mostly clean, no horses or strays in sight, but prices are rocketing due to it's thriving tech industry so catch it while you can. Be aware that if you do visit, 1st class in particular on the main lines is often booked out well in advance, as are the sleepers. Also, try to avoid the ex Danish IC2 units operated by Astra. Romania gets very hot in summer, often in the high 30s, these units whilst comfy enough normally, are fitted with inadequate aircon that cannot cope with those temperatures. I've never been as hot on a train in my life!

 

[TrainBoy98]

If going to Hungary, a trip on the Children's Railway and Cogwheel Railways in Budapest are a must.

Seconded, and a trip down from the Children's Railway on the Zugliget chairlift is not to be missed either.
Hungary has a nice variety of stock, as well as trams (and trolleybuses if that's to your taste) and the scenery is wonderful too

 

[rf_ioliver]

I think you'll insult most the country by calling Finland Eastern European, but I digress...

More or less eveything is locomotive hauled, double decker carriages, restaurant cars, 200kmh running. There are Pendolinos on the long-distance network too, I try to avoid these but not for the evening trains I have to take, plus there are single car rail busses a couple of lines: I would recommend Savonlinna as a visit in its own right. Commuter network around Helsinki and some local trains in Tampere and Lahti-Kouvola-Kotka (the latter being quite a nice little town in summer)

Scenery is nice in summer if you like trees, and in Winter, snow covered trees. There's a couple of museum railways - one in Porvoo that has limited running in summer with old DMUs and the occasional steam train, and a longer narrow gauge railway in Humppila (accessible by train via Turku or Toijala). A good railway museum exists in Hyvinkää about 45 minutes from Helsinki on a commuter service.

 

[neilmc]

Hungary is brilliant, a good network for a relatively small country and fares are cheap - in fact, if you're over 65 fares are FREE! Lots of loco-hauled stock, in Budapest often hauled by blue electrics which look very much like BR class 87.

In Budapest you have a good tram network (yellow), buses (dark blue), a few trolleybus routes although these are radial cross-link routes (red) and suburban trains (dark green) in addition to the metro network of four lines (line 1 the historical one is yellow, not sure about the others). The cog wheel railway is also part of the city network and is covered by transport passes. The costs have actually gone DOWN recently!

 

[railfan99]

Thank you for all those suggestions. We are looking to travel somewhere new, hence the list of places. We have visited Portugal, Poland etc before. We did a trip around Denmark Norway and Sweden, but not yet Finland.

I agree with the Septemvri suggestion. I did it when there was snow: extremely scenic, and unless changed, narrow gauge loco hauled with local residents using the train for shopping.

 

[The exile]

I think you'll insult most the country by calling Finland Eastern European, but I digress

Depends on whether you’re talking geography, politics or heritage!

 

[JRT]

If going to Hungary, a trip on the Children's Railway and Cogwheel Railways in Budapest are a must.

HUNGARY
The Children's Railway (Budapest) can be done as a circular trip.
Forest Railways in Hungary, including
Lillafüred Forest Train (Miskolc)

SLOVAKIA
Forest Railways in Slovakia.
Košice Children's Heritage Railway

 

[dutchflyer]

Hungary is brilliant, a good network for a relatively small country and fares are cheap - in fact, if you're over 65 fares are FREE! Lots of loco-hauled stock, in Budapest often hauled by blue electrics which look very much like BR class.

NOTE! As the main portion of readers to this forum are the insular Brits-chosen to go Brexit a few yrs ago: FREE ONLY for EU-nationals! Except for the extra supplmt to pay for the IC-trains (and express buses) and the obligatory seat-REServ for these.
Free train travel for those >62/63 in Slovakia is now also limited to EU-nationals.
(But then free bus travel for pensioners in UK/England is also limited to those actually living there and got that pass needed for it)
IMHO more as half of HU is not overly interesting in views-flat and all the same.
Agree that Finns will not be that enthusiastic in being named east-Eur.
Also digress, but as its free travel for all those old enough to qualify from whatever country:
from 65 for anyone (just show ID/passpt on the rare times ticket inspection is there): urban transport, metro/tram/bus in most CZ cities
And from 70 in all POlish cities that also have trams-plus a few that only have buses.

 

[JRT]

POLAND
Discount travel for over 60s (⅓ off, no railcard required) on the national railway system

 

[Belperpete]

Also digress, but as its free travel for all those old enough to qualify from whatever country:
from 65 for anyone (just show ID/passpt on the rare times ticket inspection is there): urban transport, metro/tram/bus in most CZ cities

EXCEPT on the urban trains, where passport is not valid ID, you need an ID card. I got my >65 ID card in Prague last week - only cost 60 Cz plus a passport-sized photo, and valid indefinitely (and saves having to carry my passport around).

 

[neilmc]

The Hungarian train company BKK website now states that rail travel is free for ALL over 65s, previously it was EU nationals only. But you need original photo ID with you. This is fairly recent, within the last couple of months I believe.

 

[nw1]

NOTE! As the main portion of readers to this forum are the insular Brits-chosen to go Brexit a few yrs ago:

We didn't all! Some of us had more sense, but hey, 37% of the electorate wanted Brexit on one random day, so it had to be done....

 

[Amateurish]

Thanks everyone, so I've booked a trip to Bulgaria. Can anyone recommend any specific routes in that country?

I'm looking for great scenery with decent rolling stock e.g. loco hauled with a dining car.

I'll be travelling home via Ruse and Bucharest.

 

[87015]

Thanks everyone, so I've booked a trip to Bulgaria. Can anyone recommend any specific routes in that country?

I'm looking for great scenery with decent rolling stock e.g. loco hauled with a dining car.

I'll be travelling home via Ruse and Bucharest.

Long distance stuff is generally aircons in various states of little or non-aircon, although some are hanging on with old compo stock or ex-DR opens. There is a batch of ex-DB Intercity wagons due in traffic 'this year' but what state they will arrive in, let alone get into is anyones guess. Vagonweb is your friend here, its generally good for showing whats booked EMU as well. The only on-train catering in the country is on the semi-fast on the narrow gauge(!)

Most of the mainlines have stretches you could call scenic by way of the various mountain ranges through the country. Sofia-Mezdra and Sofia-Septemvri have nice winding bits. The line 'up the middle' Stara Zagora-Gorna Orj crosses the Balan massive whilst you can get good views of it from Sofia-Kazanlak-Sliven line and then Karnobat-Varna passes through what google maps declares are 'wonderful rock' . The narrow gauge is scenic but a very long slog, would definitely not do it out and back in a day.

Also Sofia-Sofia Sever has just closed for direct trains so make sure you check on bdz planner, there is a EMU/tram connection but i'd be surprised if other systems show this. This may also affect formations currently shown in vagonweb but I don't know for sure.

 

[SandsofEss]

Hooray. Congratulations. I visited Bulgaria last year and loved it. A good time to do it too as BDZ is in the process of acquiring ex-German rolling stock to modernise, so some of the more interesting carriages will soon disappear.

You should like the journey from Ruse to Bucuresti. Look out for the old UK Class 87s in the sidings outside Ruse. The crawl across the Danube bridge is quite a sight, as is the ticket office at Giurgiu Nord on the Romanian side (you’ll have plenty of time to poke around while they check passports).

The line through the Shipka Pass is very scenic, and you can find particularly dated rolling stock on this route. I thoroughly recommend visiting Veliko Tarnovo – the old medieval capital of Bulgaria. It’s built on dramatic hills around a river meander, and its combination of medieval fort and more recent, run-down Soviet buildings is very interesting. It’s a bit of a walk from VT station to the old town, but if you take the route through the park it’ll take you past the Asen monument, Stambolov bridge, the dilapidated Soviet Interhotel, and then the charming Gurko street.

The main line between Sofia and Varna or Burgas is operated by loco-hauled trains, a mix of compartment and open carriages. Despite being the country’s premier express route, it’s a slow trundle, but a good way to get a sense for just how empty swathes of the country are. Varna is a fascinating city with naval history and the alley of the cosmonauts at the seafront park, though in the height of summer it may be overrun by partying tourists.

There are multiple nightly options for domestic sleeper trains from the Black Sea port cities back to Sofia, that are comfortable, well-timed, and extremely affordable.

Sofia is a great city, but fairly international. I preferred other places to get more of a sense of what makes Bulgaria unique.

The narrow gauge line between Septemvri and Dobrinishte is a forum favourite. I’ve not done it myself, but I’m sure others will be along soon with tips.

 

[MarcVD]

Thanks everyone, so I've booked a trip to Bulgaria. Can anyone recommend any specific routes in that country?

I'm looking for great scenery with decent rolling stock e.g. loco hauled with a dining car.

I'll be travelling home via Ruse and Bucharest.

If you like to get off the beaten paths, I would suggest to enter Bulgaria not via Bucharest and Ruse ad everyone does, but from Craiova and the new Danube Bridge Calafat-Vidin. This line is a step back in time and as of the Bulgarian border, is highly scenic all the way to Sofia. Another one is the line from Sofia to the Greek border at Kulata, now unfortunately a cul-de-sac as there are no cross border services there anymore. But even if you have to backtrack, the line is absolutely worth it.