VIA Rail Canadian - Toronto to Vancouver

[parkender102]

Hi

Currently planning a trip later this year on the Canadian - Toronto to Vancouver. My daughter works on a Cruise Ship and we are meeting her in Vancouver for a 2 week trip on her ship to Alaska. I'm interested in anyone's experience or tips for this trip. I've built in some slack as I know the Canadian can be delayed so we are planning a day or 2 in Vancouver before the Ship sails on Wednesday 9th August. I'm prepared to rough it and personally would have no problem spending 4 nights on the train in Economy (Reclining Seat). However the wife might not! So it's possible we may book a leg with a Bedroom / Section and also maybe a night or 2 in a hotel to break it up (Jasper or Winnipeg - possibly Edmonton). Logistically a bit of a pain as only 2 trains weekly as far as Edmonton and then 3 a week Edmonton - Vancouver.

Planning to book direct with VIA Rail on their website and reading all the great tips from The Man in Seat 61!

 

[ainsworth74]

Have you checked availability? August will be the high season so it's possible that some dates have sold out (or be extremely expensive). Might be worth starting there before getting to deep into planning! I was toying with a trip in September/October (and checking availability in December/January) and already on some dates some classes of accommodation were sold out. It'll probably be okay but I'd just double check!

 

[duncanp]

I did the trip 10 years ago, but in the reverse direction from Vancouver to Toronto.

It is a once in a lifetime trip, so have a look at the price for a bedroom, and I would say go for the bedroom if you can afford it.

Jasper, Alberta is an ideal place to break the trip. It is a small town in the middle of some stunning scenery.

The train may well be several hours late at some point in the journey, but don't worry about this, as there is a lot of slack in the timetable which can sometimes be made up.

 

[parkender102]

Have you checked availability? August will be the high season so it's possible that some dates have sold out (or be extremely expensive). Might be worth starting there before getting to deep into planning! I was toying with a trip in September/October (and checking availability in December/January) and already on some dates some classes of accommodation were sold out. It'll probably be okay but I'd just double check!

Yes I've checked and there is availability although some Classes of Accommodation Sold Out. I'm planning to book within the next few days. If the full trip is possible it'll be return flights to Toronto and then at the end of the trip a 1 way flight Vancouver to Toronto.

If the trip is going to take up too much time or I can't reservations the alternative is to get return flights to Vancouver and just take the Canadian overnight Vancouver to Jasper and spend a few days there and then same back to Vancouver and then the Cruise.

 

[jamesontheroad]

I'm prepared to rough it and personally would have no problem spending 4 nights on the train in Economy (Reclining Seat). However the wife might not! So it's possible we may book a leg with a Bedroom / Section and also maybe a night or 2 in a hotel to break it up (Jasper or Winnipeg - possibly Edmonton). Logistically a bit of a pain as only 2 trains weekly as far as Edmonton and then 3 a week Edmonton - Vancouver.

I've done it in the opposite direction in a seat in three parts: Vancouver - Edmonton, Edmonton - Winnipeg (where I detoured on the train to Churchill and back) and Winnpeg to Toronto.

In all seriousness, Jasper - Vancouver is the most scenic and important part of the trip.

The first day and a half from Toronto (d. 09.55) to Winnipeg (a. 19.30 +1) takes you through the Canadian Shield, and that's forest-lake-forest-lake-forest-lake-forest-lake all the way. It's a good period to settle in to the rhythm of the train and enjoy the amenities.

Westbound from Winnipeg (d. 21.30 +1, after a two-hour layover) you are mercifully asleep for half of the journey to Edmonton. You get a full day of the corn fields of the prairie into Edmonton (a. 20.50 +2).

I have visited and spent many happy times in Winnipeg and Edmonton (and even got quite serious about taking a job in Saskatoon) but to everyone except the true Canadaphile they offer little more than 48hrs worth of distractions. I would choose Edmonton over Winnipeg if you only make one step between Toronto and the Rockies because there is the historic streetcar, an interesting LRT system, and slightly more culture and nightlife than Winnipeg.

If you can have two stops, then I would add Jasper. If the train still ran through Banff I'd insist on stopping there, because it's even more spectacular, but a few nights in the mountains in Jasper might be a good compliment to some time out at sea on a cruise ship. It's one thing to take a train through the Rockies but it's another to stop for a few days and really breathe the air and experience the majestic landscape.

The cost and logistics mean few get to take the Canadian more than once, and to be honest once across Ontario, Manitoba and Saskatoon by train was enough for me. So spend as much as you can to get the best available accommodations, and enjoy the high quality service and comfortable accommodations.

 

[RT4038]

Look at YouTube for instance

 

[181]

If the trip is going to take up too much time or I can't reservations the alternative is to get return flights to Vancouver and just take the Canadian overnight Vancouver to Jasper and spend a few days there and then same back to Vancouver and then the Cruise.

If you can't get on the Canadian, you could still cross all or part of the continent by train by taking Amtrak to Seattle (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empire_Builder), from where it appears that there is currently one daily train (and several buses) to Vancouver (take care not to book to Vancouver, Washington by mistake!).

(If you were to go on Amtrak but still wanted to see eastern Canada, Toronto-New York currently appears to be the only cross-border train in the east, as Montreal-New York is still suspended post-Covid and there hasn't been a Toronto-Chicago train for many years).

 

[simonw]

Unless cornfields are your thing, I would not recommend doing the full journey. In all honesty you are better off flying Toronto to Calgary and hiring a car in Calgary. You can then explore the mountains at your own pace, stopping and seeing the spectacular sights.

 

[Bletchleyite]

Unless cornfields are your thing, I would not recommend doing the full journey. In all honesty you are better off flying Toronto to Calgary and hiring a car in Calgary. You can then explore the mountains at your own pace, stopping and seeing the spectacular sights.

Is this CarUKForums? Sounds like sometimes

I have done it and it was about far more than the scenery. It felt at times like being on one of the great trains of the North American movies.

 

[simonw]

Is this CarUKForums? Sounds like sometimes

I have done it and it was about far more than the scenery. It felt at times like being on one of the great trains of the North American movies.

peoples experience will differ, but having lived in western canada, mile after mile of corn gets tedious and if you want to see the mountains by train use the Rocky Mountaineer, is my advice.

 

[Bletchleyite]

peoples experience will differ, but having lived in western canada, mile after mile of corn gets tedious and if you want to see the mountains by train use the Rocky Mountaineer, is my advice.

If you just want to look at mountains, go for a ride on the Kyle or West Highland Lines and save your air fare, the scenery is very similar.

On the other hand, the experience of a transcontinental train journey is so much more than that. It's a bit like a cruise on wheels.

 

[simonw]

If you just want to look at mountains, go for a ride on the Kyle or West Highland Lines and save your air fare, the scenery is very similar.

On the other hand, the experience of a transcontinental train journey is so much more than that. It's a bit like a cruise on wheels.

Kyle and the West highland line are really not in anyway similar to the rockies, they really arent.

 

[Bletchleyite]

Kyle and the West highland line are really not in anyway similar to the rockies, they really arent.

I have done it and in terms of the view from the train, bears aside, they very much are.

 

[simonw]

I have done it and in terms of the view from the train, bears aside, they very much are.

We will have to disagree on that

 

[Bletchleyite]

We will have to disagree on that

We will. But it doesn't detract from my point that it isn't just about gawping at mountains, or indeed bears. The whole experience of a transcontinental train journey is something in itself. It's as much about where it stops, who you talk to over dinner etc. It's like a microcosm of a cruise ship or even a classic transatlantic sailing.

If you're not up for that, fly and hire a car. But it really is something, it's almost like being in the movies.

 

[simonw]

We will. But it doesn't detract from my point that it isn't just about gawping at mountains, or indeed bears. The whole experience of a transcontinental train journey is something in itself. It's as much about where it stops, who you talk to over dinner etc. It's like a microcosm of a cruise ship or even a classic transatlantic sailing.

If you're not up for that, fly and hire a car. But it really is something, it's almost like being in the movies.

I've done that and would recommend Washington - Chicago or Quebec to Halifax if you want a train journey where you meet interesting people who are taking the train for the purpose it was first introduced.

 

[8A Rail]

Best way to answer your question and thoughts is describe my (our) experience and may be amongst it, you may find something that may appeal to you.

We have done the 'Canadian' as part of across Canada by Rail with stopping off at various locations on the way. Our journey initially started at Montreal, then to Toronto (5 hour journey) were we picked up the 'Canadian' to Jasper which included two nights on board, obviously going via Winnipeg and Richmond. At Jasper, we got off the train and stayed in the area for three nights with first and third nights in Jasper but the second night in Banff, we hired a car for a pleasant drive there and back through the National Park. Back at Jasper, we went on the 'Rocky Mountaineer' for the next three days went via Prince George and Quesnel. This went through the heart of the Rockies encompassing both the Thompson and Frasier Rivers including desert conditions via Lillooet Station and onto Whistler. We then stayed at Whistler for three nights before heading to Vancouver on the 'Whistler Mountaineer' which only takes a few hours and I had the privilege of a short cab ride too!

Our experience on the 'Canadian' was a very good one as we were at the back of the train for our accommodation, therefore easy access to the rear Observation Saloon. Our 'room' a was lounge during the day and sleeping quarters in the evening, the beds were comfortable and the ride was good. Because where we were situated on the train, it my be advisable to take'ear plugs' if you do not wish to hear the rumbling of loco engines on freights waiting to depart the various passing loops during the night as you go pass. . The food on the 'Canadian' was 5 star and you never sit with the same people either (done on purpose) and the service was excellent. The coaches are fully air conditioned and generally the only opening windows is / was at the end coach doors. As for our part of the journey to Jasper, forgetting about the departure from the Toronto area, the rest of the journey can be split into two. First day, if you seen one tree, you seen millions. Second day was across the Prairies and flat were you can see the city of Richmond from many many many miles away!! However going through Richmond, it takes a little while to get through the rail yards and by pass the loco sheds / yards too. What I liked about the 'Canadian' because of the 'scenery', we could completely chill out and relax without worrying too much if we missed anything outside! Would we do that journey again, yes without a doubt.

As for the second leg on the 'Rocky Mountaineer' from Jasper to Whistler, that was without doubt the best scenic part of journey as you go through the heart of the Rockies in various ways and climates. Picking up a comment about comparisons between the Rockies and the Scottish West Highlands is the sheer scale of the former. Both areas beautiful and stunning but for totally different reasons, again it is the variety and scale of the Rockies. You do not stay on board the Rocky Mountaineer for the evenings as a good hotel is provided for that purpose. I would certainly recommend to stay a night or two at Jasper as you have the huge rail yard opposite the two mile long main road in Jasper! If you can stay longer then take the opportunity to head to Banff for a night, you won't be disappointed. At Banff, we went for a helicopter ride through that part of the Rockies which was spectacular to say the least. The food on board the Rocky Mountaineer is excellent too but the 'Canadian' had the edge though. The 'Gold Leaf' service was excellent too and the Train Managers and Staff do look after you very well indeed.

So there you go, different reasons to consider both trains but what ever or do, you must savour the 'Rockies' one way or another. If you don't you will regret it.

 

[Tester]

You might like to check out the Canadian Passenger Rail io group

A mine of useful information.

 

[railfan99]

I did the opposite direction in 2016 with my wife and mother.

We stopped off in Jasper. More than C$300 for a poor quality motel room, and that was seven years ago.

I disagree with simonw. You ought do the whole journey, as that gives you the whole experience.

If choosing a sleeping compartment, go for compartment F as it has slightly more room than the others.

Since I travelled, time restrictions have been introduced on when sleeping car passengers (other than the super high fare 'premium' patrons) can access the rear observation car. That would be annoying.

Some of the staff can be passive aggressive. If one wants to sit at an empty table in the dining car, staff don't allow that.

They also won't allow you to stand in the aisle near the 'Dutch doors' (which have a bar anyway stopping you from being in the vestibule right next to the doors). This is the only train anywhere in the world (apart from the Grand Canyon one in the USA) that prohibits this. Officious!

A friend has taken groups on 'The Canadian'. On one trip, his sleeping car conductor scoffed at the tip offered and demanded more.

Yet they're not on USA low wages, or southeast Asian even lower ones when applying purchasing power parity.

Ignore the rude staff, and enjoy the scenry and atmosphere, as the food is indeed good to excellent.

A Jasper stopover is expensive: we went by prearranged road coach (a mini tour) to Banff.

TripAdvisor has a large number of negative reviews about privately operated 'Rocky Mountaineer' that to my mind is hideously expensive. The company (like Journey Beyond in Australia, owned by Hornblower USA and operating 'The Ghan' and 'Indian Pacific') refuses to refund monies due to COVID-19 related cancellations. So I won't be patronising it.

I have also used the sitting cars from Sudbury Junction to Toronto. They are extremely comfortable, just like first class sitting cars Australia used to have when the Melbourne-Adelaide 'The Overland' was a night train. 'The Canadian' was five hours late, so I had to wait through the night at an unstaffed station ("depot"). I survived!

Overall Canada is clearly more expensive to travel in than the USA. I also did Prince Rupert's line, as well as 'The Ocean' to Halifax and back, and a branch line loco hauled train north of Montreal.

 

[parkender102]

If you can't get on the Canadian, you could still cross all or part of the continent by train by taking Amtrak to Seattle (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empire_Builder), from where it appears that there is currently one daily train (and several buses) to Vancouver (take care not to book to Vancouver, Washington by mistake!).

(If you were to go on Amtrak but still wanted to see eastern Canada, Toronto-New York currently appears to be the only cross-border train in the east, as Montreal-New York is still suspended post-Covid and there hasn't been a Toronto-Chicago train for many years).

Yes noticed that route. Many years ago we did an 18 Month round the world trip (worked in Australia for a year after crossing Europe - Russia - China on the Trans Manchurian Train via Trans Siberian Railway). On the way back we spent 6 weeks in America and from memory an Amtrak Pass was $250 for 6 weeks unlimited travel so we used that to travel all over the USA. Seattle - Chicago was one of the routes we did (on the Empire Builder) - can't recall a lot but there were lots of small towns along the route that the train stopped at that were quite quirky. We may have spent 2 nights in the Standard Economy / Coach Seats but remember it being extremely Comfortable as the attendants brought round Blankets and Pillows and the seats were huge with enough legroom to sleep Horizontal with legs stretched out on a support that moved into place when the seat was reclined.

 

[Merseysider]

I did Toronto - Vancouver 3 years ago in sleeper class. Very comfortable, washing facilities available though I don't remember if it was a shower, meals included, extra beers at other times chargable (£8+) and a viewing dome in the adjacent car. Don't recommend a seated ticket - no access to the restaurant nor the viewing dome; also I had a look around and it looked like a slum Don't book any connecting journeys the day of arrival (or even the next morning) as we arrived 10+ hours late which apparently was pretty standard, due to freight getting priority, though they have rejigged the timetable since then. Be aware that if you break the journey up, and alight / rejoin mid journey, you may get to the station for an 11pm departure only to find out that the train's been held for several hours and you lose a night's sleep. It happened to pax on my train - we picked up at 5am people who weren't best pleased at the 7 hour delay!

 

[Bletchleyite]

There is indeed a shower in the sleeper coaches and it is surprisingly good. Did have an issue whereby it was frozen up for a day of our trip, though, as we went in midwinter.

 

[nlogax]

Can't comment on the specific service you're planning but I concur with recommendations for a Jasper stop-off. It's a pleasant albeit pricey little town with some great vistas. I would suggest renting a car from Jasper for a couple of days and exploring the beautiful Icefields Parkway and towards the TCH and Lake Louise.

Scenery-wise there's little worth writing home about anywhere east of Calgary although @Bletchleyite's perspective here on transcontinental rail travel is spot on.

 

[ac6000cw]

Not travelled on the Canadian or Rocky Mountaineer (I've done transcontinental trips on Amtrak in US), but we've explored Vancouver, BC - Calgary, AB twice over different routes by car and cruised from Vancouver up the coast to Seward, Alaska (including a ride on the White Pass and Yukon railroad from Skagway).

The mountain scenery is fabulous, accommodation and food is generally very good/excellent (but you do pay for it...) - it's one of those places like Switzerland I'd go back to in an instant (ignoring the cost aspect!).

First trip route was: Calgary - Banff - Lake Louise - (Icefields Parkway) - Jasper - west over Yellowhead Pass - (Highway 5 southwards) - Kamloops - Ashcroft - Lytton - Boston Bar - Hope - Vancouver.

Second trip route was: Vancouver - Whistler - Lillooet - Ashcroft - Kamloops - Salmon Arm - Revelstoke - (Rogers Pass) - Golden - Field - (Kicking Horse Pass) - Lake Louise - Banff - Calgary.

As for a few places along the way, the town of Jasper itself is pleasant and touristy - it's the surrounding scenery that's the main attraction (even if it's very wet and cloudy, like it was when we visited). It's also a divisional office and crew change point on the Canadian National mainline - plenty of freight trains passing through. I think Banff is a nicer/more interesting place to stay. Lake Louise is a village with a huge hotel (originally railway owned, now a Fairmont) about 2 miles away next to the lake. The Icefields Parkway (the road between Lake Louise and Jasper) is definitely worth the drive for the scenery. Kamloops is a small city/large town with a relatively dry climate and the Canadian Pacific mainline passing through the middle of it and the CN mainline passing through the north side (also a CP crew change point and an overnight stopover for passengers on the Rocky Mountaineer). If you want the full Kamloops 'railfan experience' stay in the Sandman Signature hotel alongside the CP mainline in a room facing the railway - thundering diesels 24 hours a day . Vancouver is a nice city with plenty to explore - although the hustle and bustle of it is a bit of a culture shock after being in mountainous wilderness for a while!

Be aware that winter lasts a long time in the mountains - June is still springtime (when we did the first trip), and winter weather starts to arrive in October (as we found out on the second trip).

 

[Elwyn]

I’ve been to Jasper several times and agree it’s a good place to base yourself. I did not find the motels expensive. If arriving by train there are a couple of hire car desks in the station if you want to pick one up.

I would also recommend the 3 times weekly scheduled train from Jasper to Prince Rupert. Takes 2 days and stops overnight in Prince George. Not expensive - the 2 day train fare was around $180 Canadian about 5 years ago. Very scenic with the Rocky Mountains all around. As good scenery as the Rocky Mountaineer but a tenth of the price. Locomotive, 3 carriages & 1 baggage car when I did it. One carriage had upstairs observation seating area. Last carriage had armchairs in a circle at the rear so you could admire the scenery or chat to the other passengers. Only about 40 or 50 travelling. All very relaxed and friendly. Great mountains plus we saw black bears and a coyote.

There’s a hotel near Prince George station where most people, including the train crew, stay overnight if doing the whole journey. Baggage car is locked at night so if you want you can leave some of your luggage in it. No need to take it to and from the hotel in Prince George. You rejoin the same train the following morning.

You can get refreshments on board but you might do better taking your own food.

There are various interesting places to go to from Prince Rupert (including a ferry to Alaska) or you can fly down to Vancouver. Whale watching trips. We took a floatplane to a grizzly bear sanctuary area.

 

[nlogax]

Yes, the service to Prince Rupert is something I didn't have time to do when I was last in that part of the world. Managed to grab this shot while the service was waiting to depart Jasper. Just beautiful.

 

[AlterEgo]

Unless cornfields are your thing, I would not recommend doing the full journey. In all honesty you are better off flying Toronto to Calgary and hiring a car in Calgary. You can then explore the mountains at your own pace, stopping and seeing the spectacular sights.

That’s not what I’d recommend. I did the whole journey in high summer last year and it was magnificent. The point of the Canadian is the sheer scale which has a majesty in and of itself. Plus you get to meet lots of interesting people on board. It’s one of the world’s longest and most culturally significant train journeys operated with bubble dome cars and a bullet lounge.

 

[williamn]

I have *only* done Toronto-Winnipeg on The Canadian, which apparently is the 'boring' bit, but I still loved it, and the sense of scale is pretty awe-inspiring to someone from a small island like the UK! Staff in my experience are absolutely lovely on all of VIA Rail services.

 

[Taunton]

Although I've not been for a while (first Canadian transcontinental rail 1974, most recent 1986), they were fascinating trips. Among other things noteworthy nowadays for the stainless rolling stock, built by Budd for Canadian Pacific in the mid 1950s, now being 70 years old, with no apparent prospect for replacement, and quite possibly it is going to make its 100th anniversary in front line service. It has of course been subject to various rebuildings, the steam heating/aircon being replaced by electric. Looking at the video linked above the seats look original, though doubtless re-upholstered.

The observation car at the back gave an interesting view on one section of a little maintenance-of-way Speeder following us about 100 yards behind, at our full speed.

Contrary to other commentators, I found both the Prairies and the Ontario shield (the latter seemingly almost half the trip) just as fascinating as through the Rockies, even sat in isolation in the dome car running through the night, with the block signals ahead regularly reverting from green to red, and the occasional headlight of an oncoming train. The small Prairie towns, far from any airport, still generate some of the regular commercial traffic for the train, in the day coaches. Not much, but sufficient to get the attention of the politicians in Ottawa to continue support for the service.

The 1974 trip, eastbound on CN, was unfortunately characterised by the diner, three days into the trip, developing a hot box in the middle of the night and having to be detached at Hornepayne, a railway division point very Far From the Madding Crowd, middle of the Ontario forest, pitch dark all around, no switch engine, the four F-units on the front with their usual lagging differently throttle controls being guided from down on the ballast into a rusty siding by brakemen out swinging lanterns. Recoupling at about 5mph was a WHAM that must have woken the whole train up. And no breakfast the following morning!

 

[185]

I considered this, and instead went for the USA option, two nights in a small private room (roomette) with all food and soft drinks included was a quarter the price on Amtrak, from Chicago to San Francisco, via the Rockies, Colorado River, Utah and the Nevada desert. I do get the feeling the Canadian offering is like the Australian ones - one of those stupid 'luxury wine tasting and entertainment' cultural rubbish experiences, ie. nothing really to do with the train or the scenery.