Bernina Express - advice desired!

[Dave W]

1.If you all fancy a glass of wine or two during the day, you can leave the car at your hotel, and reach the train from Varenna to Tirano by ferry from several points across the lake

We reviewed this option, but the ferry from Bellagio for train from Varenna isn't really great time wise. Similarly, the ferry seems like the logical option rather than tacking to the south of the lake and back up the east shore, but to reach the Strade Statali from Varenna requires a slow trundle along to the next village and up a challenging set of switchbacks, whereas going round to the south means jumping on SS36 and avoiding all that. As it stands, Mrs DW isn't the biggest drinker in the world, so she'll take the reins for the way back!

That's an 'off season' thing when the full Bernina Express timetable isn't running and they have spare cars available.

I think this is where I'm getting confused - is next Friday "in season", or "off season"? And as I've booked the 1006 from Tirano, will I just be on a full Express train? The selected seats are a bay of four facing.

 

[wellhouse]

The 1006 is a Bernina Express, so the Panorama Cars are only for passengers who have booked the full deal. If you have First Class tickets, you can still go for seats behind the driver. in the EMU.

 

[43096]

And another couple of things!

1.If you all fancy a glass of wine or two during the day, you can leave the car at your hotel, and reach the train from Varenna to Tirano by ferry from several points across the lake
2. For your interest, if not your family's, several of the morning and evening trains are mixed traffic, with an EMU hauling freight. We saw mainly timber traffic, but our early train from Alp Grum hauling empty timber wagons and a container for the Co-op.

Like this mixed service with two timber carriers behind an Allegra and two coaches...

 

[boiledbeans2]

I did the journey from Tirano to Chur and back in February 2023. I used normal service trains only, changing at St Moritz.

I bought the tickets at the ticket office at Tirano, 1 hour before boarding the train (get there early to avoid queues). My plan was to travel to Chur on day 1, stay overnight at Chur and return to Tirano on day 2. The ticket clerk suggested a buy a 2-day ticket, which was valid on the whole RhB network, which was about 10 CHF cheaper than buying 2 singles.

On the Tirano to St Moritz journey, the train was quiet in the first half (I left at about noon). I could easily swap sides on the train to get the best view. It was an Allegra and I opened the windows on both sides of the train to get photos. But once at the peak, a lot of people got on and all seats were occuped. An elderly couple shut all the windows on the train when boarding. Then I re-opened the window adjacent to me. After a while, the elderly couple came to me and complained about the window and saying it was cold (they seemed to be regular travellers/locals). I reluctantly closed the window for the remainder of the trip. The heating of the train was very warm, everyone was in T-shirts.

From St Moritz to Chur and back to St Moritz (I know this part of the trip is not relevant to the OP), the train has a photography carriage, which is specifically designed with electric opening windows for taking photos. I stayed in that carriage and was much happier. These trains also have a restaurant car.

On the return trip from St Moritz to Tirano, the people seemed to be all tourists and didn't mind when I opened the windows.

Anyway, to the OP, I think it depends on what you and your family prefer. If you want a peaceful ride without moving around, you could go for the panoramic cars (All services have panoramic cars***, even the non-Bernina Express trains. You can pay the supplement onboard). But if you plan to take a lot of photos, the regular service trains might be better with opening windows.

In the summer, they attach open-top wagons to the Tirano - St Moritz trains too.

If you do decide on the panoramic cars, the general recommendation is to choose a seat on the left side of the train when going North, and right side when going South. You won't be able to figure out the direction of the train if you choose your seats online. So the best idea might be to catch a non-Bernina Express train, board the panoramic car early to choose the best seats, and wait for the ticket inspector to come and pay the supplement.

Also, download these 2 brochures and load it onto your phone so you know what to look out for along the route. You should be able to find the brochures physically at Tirano and St Moritz too.

https://www.rhb.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/redaktion/Dokumente/BEX_Europa_DE-EN-IT-FR.pdf

https://www.rhb.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/redaktion/Dokumente/panoramakarte_630x420mm_2022.pdf

***EDIT, after reading some the earlier posts carefully, it seems this is only true for off-season trains.

 

[blackfive460]

I think this is where I'm getting confused - is next Friday "in season", or "off season"? And as I've booked the 1006 from Tirano, will I just be on a full Express train? The selected seats are a bay of four facing.

Don't be confused!
The 10.06 from Tirano to St. Moritz is the Bernina Express so you will be in a train made up of panorama cars hauled either by an Alegra EMU or a pair of ABe 4/4 III railcars (the latter being the more interesting option as they'll be coming out of service before long).
If you have booked seats you will be in a panorama car. Seats in the Allegra EMU or ABe 4/4 IIIs are available for those with ordinary tickets.
If you can manage it, I really would suggest a break of journey on the way back at Alp Grüm if you get a fine day. I think, but check with staff on the train on your way out (they nearly all have excellent English), that Bernina Express tickets are valid in ordinary trains for a later train back to Tirano.

 

[Dave W]

Thank you everyone - these tips and pointers have been most helpful.

I've booked the "last minute" deal noted above for 4, which worked out at £319.90 (4x CHF 89 at an excahnge rate of about CHF 1.11). 10:06 out, with the last (I think) Express return at 16:14. So that'll be a couple of excellent (hopefully!) journeys, and I can say I've lunched in St Moritz

Grateful to all, especially contributors who sought out ways to (a) save me money by stopping me going down the super tourist route and (b) provided some excellent suggestions of what to do along the line - but, with keeping the in-laws in happy in mind, these up front tickets with guaranteed end-to-end itinerary are the safest way to ensure brownie points are gained, especially on a birthday.

I shall be keeping these notes for when I inevitably go back on my own to hang out of the windows with my camera, mind!

Thanks!
Dave

 

[robvulpes]

....... An elderly couple shut all the windows on the train when boarding. Then I re-opened the window adjacent to me. After a while, the elderly couple came to me and complained about the window and saying it was cold (they seemed to be regular travellers/locals). I reluctantly closed the window for the remainder of the trip. ........

This is very common amongst middle-aged and older Swiss people: surprising, given their fondness for Alpine walking and similar outdoor activities.

 

[Shaw S Hunter]

This is very common amongst middle-aged and older Swiss people: surprising, given their fondness for Alpine walking and similar outdoor activities.

Not just in Switzerland, it's common in Germany too.

 

[boiledbeans2]

This is very common amongst middle-aged and older Swiss people: surprising, given their fondness for Alpine walking and similar outdoor activities.

Yeah, I thought the same thing. They boarded the train at about 2 or 3pm. My guess is that they spent the entire morning walking in the snow in Alp Grum, and then to board the train and complain that the opened window is cold. The train doesn't travel very fast anyway, so there isn't much wind coming in. I just Googled "bernina express average speed", which is 36 km/h (22 mph).

Anyway, the attached file at the bottom of this post is a still from a video I took, taken on the Brusio spiral viaduct, which was my favourite section of the whole trip.

Brusio spiral viaduct - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

It was taken on the southbound trip, with the train full of tourists. I was in the first carriage of the Allegra, and you can see in the carriage immediately after the Allegra (right side of photo), the windows were all down with cameras out (You can also see they attached the 2 panoramic cars to the end of the train).

It was my favourite part of the trip, because at that moment, going down the steep spiral, it felt like I was riding a toy train, a model railway set.

 

[Dave W]

Yeah it's good.

... It's really, really good. What a fabulous day. I now see the value of the non-panoramic cars, but I'm glad I did it in them. I got free herbal tea (in a juice carton) and two lots of Lindt chocolates in a nice "model" tin. The experience on the outbound was excellent - cloudy but atmospheric. The sun came out as we came back across the top of the pass: wow! Genuinely one of the greatest experiences of my life - I'm so glad I did it.

(image description: My Bernina Express train in the sun whilst pausing for photos at Alp Grum. The Alps are behind)

 

[duesselmartin]

It is in my view the most beautiful rail line in Europe. Glad you enjoyed it.

 

[43096]

Yeah it's good.

... It's really, really good. What a fabulous day. I now see the value of the non-panoramic cars, but I'm glad I did it in them. I got free herbal tea (in a juice carton) and two lots of Lindt chocolates in a nice "model" tin. The experience on the outbound was excellent - cloudy but atmospheric. The sun came out as we came back across the top of the pass: wow! Genuinely one of the greatest experiences of my life - I'm so glad I did it.

(image description: My Bernina Express train in the sun whilst pausing for photos at Alp Grum. The Alps are behind)

Great! We’d given it the big build-up on here, so really pleased to hear how much you enjoyed it. Hope your family enjoyed it as much?

 

[Dave W]

Yes, the birthday boy was consistently remarking how he'd never experienced anything quite like it - and I tended to agree.

The rate of climb was quite jarring - especially from Tirano. The panoramic cars were comfortable and half full to the point where our family of 4 was happily strewn across 2 bays, and could move to our hearts' content . I was happy with the reduction in photo quality one way, although given the choice I'd probably take the rail car's opening windows on my return for some serious pics. We had four seasons in a day on Friday, including a few flakes of snow in St Moritz, so we got a great combination of moody, atmospheric views and bright, sunny vistas.

It's a very interesting operation, all in all - they work really hard to keep the trains moving, and regularly too.

It's been said upthread how good this experience is - but just to reiterate for those that might come across this: absolutely do it if you have the chance. It's fascinating, comfortable and most of all a stonking good view!

Thanks again to all contributors - it meant I knew what I was going in to and could manage expectations (although in the end, the journey far surpassed them).

 

[duesselmartin]

OT: Being in St. Moritz at this time of time the year? How busy was the town?
Been in Grindelwald before Easter and it already felt overrun with tourists.

 

[Dave W]

OT: Being in St. Moritz at this time of time the year? How busy was the town?
Been in Grindelwald before Easter and it already felt overrun with tourists.

Good Q - I was baffled by it, although perhaps I might have done a bit of research. All the shops were closed for 6 weeks between the end of one season and start of the next. We managed to get a very expensive lunch - quick walk around including the leaning tower and back on the train.

Not that I'd have been able to afford Swiss prices anyway...!

 

[Shaw S Hunter]

Good Q - I was baffled by it, although perhaps I might have done a bit of research. All the shops were closed for 6 weeks between the end of one season and start of the next. We managed to get a very expensive lunch - quick walk around including the leaning tower and back on the train.

Not that I'd have been able to afford Swiss prices anyway...!

Most Swiss are well aware of just what an amazing landscape they live in and certainly make the effort to enjoy it for themselves. I guess such an off-season gives them a chance to enjoy it all on their own terms and also at a particularly lovely time of year. Also I recently came across a suggestion that the Engadin is the sunniest non-coastal region in Europe, no wonder it is such a draw for visitors.

 

[30907]

Good Q - I was baffled by it, although perhaps I might have done a bit of research. All the shops were closed for 6 weeks between the end of one season and start of the next.

Typical of Alpine resorts - not only in Switzerland, I've experienced the same in Austria and France - spring and late autumn weather without snow, plus there's no school holiday (except for Brits - been there, done that) so not particularly attractive as a destination.
OT, but go to the French Med coast in mid September and it's equally quiet.

 

[Austriantrain]

Typical of Alpine resorts - not only in Switzerland, I've experienced the same in Austria and France - spring and late autumn weather without snow, plus there's no school holiday (except for Brits - been there, done that) so not particularly attractive as a destination.

And everybody working there needs a vacation (plus there will be renovations etc) - there is usually no break during winter and summer.

 

[Foxhunter]

It's been said upthread how good this experience is - but just to reiterate for those that might come across this: absolutely do it if you have the chance. It's fascinating, comfortable and most of all a stonking good view!

Like 43096 I'm relieved that the build up we gave it was justified by the experience.

In the spirit of contributing for future readers considering the same itinerary please let me mention the Muottas Muragl Hotel at St Moritz. I stayed there based on the Man At Seat 61 recommendation, and thoroughly enjoyed the experience of a nice hotel, panoramic views, and dining at 8,000 feet. (I justified it to myself on the basis that you only live once - make the most of what time you have). With favourable weather it would have been a fantastic lunch spot for you. There is a request stop on the railway at the lower station for the funicular to the hotel, but tbh I'm not sure if the Express would stop (in which case you would have to connect through St Moritz, bus is probably easier).

[I have no connection to the hotel, other than as a very satisfied customer].

 

[Dave W]

And everybody working there needs a vacation (plus there will be renovations etc) - there is usually no break during winter and summer.

Don't get me wrong, I'm definitely not the sort to deny workers their own time! I visit everywhere as a guest without entitlement! To be fair, there were very few shops in St Moritz I'd have been able to buy from anyway!

I'd happily go back - but our trip was 95% about the train, which was excellent.

 

[Austriantrain]

Don't get me wrong, I'm definitely not the sort to deny workers their own time! I visit everywhere as a guest without entitlement! To be fair, there were very few shops in St Moritz I'd have been able to buy from anyway!

I'd happily go back - but our trip was 95% about the train, which was excellent.

Don’t worry, I did not understand it that way.

It was just by way of explanation- most alpine resorts largely close down for a few weeks in spring and fall (luckily, many places are still family-operated and these people work 7/7 during the season. And their employees need time off as well: they will work 6/7… and it is hard enough to find employees as it is).

 

[blackfive460]

There is a request stop on the railway at the lower station for the funicular to the hotel, but tbh I'm not sure if the Express would stop (in which case you would have to connect through St Moritz, bus is probably easier).

There is also a request stop; Punt Muragl Staz, on the direct line between Pontresina and St. Moritz. It's a little further away than Punt Muragl on the line from Samedan but not too far.

 

[30907]

There is also a request stop; Punt Muragl Staz, on the direct line between Pontresina and St. Moritz. It's a little further away than Punt Muragl on the line from Samedan but not too far.

...at which the Bernina Express doesn't stop

 

[blackfive460]

...at which the Bernina Express doesn't stop

No one said it did!

 

[Alfonso]

If you don't have much luggage, you could also take the chairlift from pontresina to alp languard from where its a very nice and relatively easy walk to muottas muragl

 

[Thebaz]

I did the whole trip from Chur to Tirano (and we carried on into Milan and then Florence - 10hrs on the train that day!) with my young family the summer before C19 broke out. It was absolutely stunning, jaw-dropping at times - well anyone doing it as they will surely never experience anything like it again. The "express" is more expensive but worth it if you do the whole length, especially if you're also trying to get somewhere!

 

[elbows47]

I did the whole trip from Chur to Tirano (and we carried on into Milan and then Florence - 10hrs on the train that day!) with my young family the summer before C19 broke out. It was absolutely stunning, jaw-dropping at times - well anyone doing it as they will surely never experience anything like it again. The "express" is more expensive but worth it if you do the whole length, especially if you're also trying to get somewhere!

I can't stress how great the Bernina Express is for the tourist and the railway enthusiast alike. I have had more than a dozen Swiss Travel Card holidays and gone on the Bernina Express on most of them. Chur is my favourite town in Switzerland and, staying there each time, it is a great day out from there, down to Tirano on the morning train about 08:45, back from Tirano on the ordinary service train after about half an hour in Tirano, direct to St Moritz and then direct back to Chur. One of the trips didn't reach Tirano as it was the day the landslip at Brusio that caused the deviation happened. The train was terminated at Poschiavo with passengers offered a coach to Tirano. I returned north to see more of the Rhaetian.

Most of my journeys were late May or early June, and in a lot of them the lakes were still frozen - fabulous scenery! But then I have also had a 1st June blizzard in Zermatt, another at the top of the Rigi - a total whiteout. My first trip though was 1983 when we had a fortnight, 13 and a half days of 80 degrees F, the other morning being a violent thunderstorm between Spiez and Lauterbrunnen, when the lightning struck the then funicular BLM track just before I was going to catch the train.

One operating point about Alp Grum is that leaving towards Tirano, the track remains double for a short while, but the tracks are almost overlapping.

 

[bahnause]

The point in Alp Grüm was moved to the new location in 2006. The new location is less exposed and causes less problems in winter.

 

[LNW-GW Joint]

If you don't have much luggage, you could also take the chairlift from pontresina to alp languard from where its a very nice and relatively easy walk to muottas muragl

The "Panoramaweg", truly special with the Bernina peaks all around.
I've done that twice with the family, summer and winter, the latter being a bit tricky with snow and ice to negotiate (and no cow-bells).
You can follow the RhB trains in the valley from your vantage point as well.
Diavolezza is the best mountain viewpoint, but it's pricey to get up there.

 

[bahnause]

You can walk up to Diavolezza, it´s free. And walk over to Sas Queder. Then you can brag about having climbed a 3,000-metre peak.