Bologna Centrale Recommendations

[Iskra]

This June I will be flying in to Bologna Airport and catching the shuttle train to Bologna Centrale in the afternoon, where I will then have a sizeable wait until the Night Train down to Taranto, before I catch the IC train along the Ionian Coast line. Thus, I have a few questions about how to fill the time in the vicinity of Bologna Centrale, where I haven’t visited before:

- Is there anything that is a must see in Bologna of historic or railway interest?
- Are there any noteworthy locomotive hauled services in the area that could be worth a trip or even just a photo.
- While there appears to be a lot of restaurants in the vicinity of the station, are any of them particularly good?
- Equally, is there a decent bar in the area selling decent beer?
- Is there anywhere to stock up on provisions in the local area, as neither of my onward trains will have proper catering?

Thanks in advance for any help with the above

 

[jfollows]

Bologna is described as the "food capital" of Italy by some, and it's not wrong, you are not going to lack for good places to eat. Personally I'd head up to the main square (from memory it's a little walk, but get a taxi if you're too encumbered with luggage etc.) and I don't think you can go wrong if you follow your instincts from there. Likewise for a bar.
Since you're coming from the airport, just head into the centre and enjoy food and drink there before making your way to the station later on - that's what I'd do.

 

[BeijingDave]

The University of Bologna is the world's oldest, founded in 1088, and is just 1km walk from the station.

I have never been to Bologna but would consider this a 'must-see' if I was going.

 

[Iskra]

Bologna is described as the "food capital" of Italy by some, and it's not wrong, you are not going to lack for good places to eat. Personally I'd head up to the main square (from memory it's a little walk, but get a taxi if you're too encumbered with luggage etc.) and I don't think you can go wrong if you follow your instincts from there. Likewise for a bar.
Since you're coming from the airport, just head into the centre and enjoy food and drink there before making your way to the station later on - that's what I'd do.

Main square means high prices in Italy!

The University of Bologna is the world's oldest, founded in 1088, and is just 1km walk from the station.

I have never been to Bologna but would consider this a 'must-see' if I was going.

That’s a good shout to be fair, thank you

 

[jfollows]

My recollection of Bologna is that - the first time I went - I flew from Manchester. First thoughts were how chaotic it was, but a nice place. I then went by train to various places, including Naples, and returned to Bologna. I realised how quiet and "civilised" it was in comparison to other parts of Italy, especially Naples, which I liked anyway but it was a bit mad.
Higher prices means higher quality in Bologna anyway, don't cut off your nose to spite your face if you're only going to be there for a while, would be my advice.

 

[rg177]

There's a DESPAR supermarket to stock up with provisions on the left as you leave the station heading for the historical centre.

It has self-service tills as well which have an English option.

 

[LNW-GW Joint]

I found Bologna Centrale a really difficult station to navigate, having arrived in the HS section which is below and to the north of the classic station.
Lots of very crowded and narrow subway corridors to reach the main frontage.
I had a room in a nearby block (actually overlooking the railway to the east, where my EC train was parked overnight) which was a nightmare to access (keys, gates etc).
But once inside the proprietors were very friendly, set up breakfast ahead of normal time and insisted I try their home-made marmalade!
They also gave me directions to a supermarket nearby (not near the station), the most important purchase being a litre carton of excellent red for €1.50...

 

[boiledbeans2]

Yes, Bologna Centrale was confusing to me when I first arrived as well. It's much more complex than the simple station building suggests.

As mentioned by the previous post, the High Speed platforms are many floors below the main station. I arrived in Bologna from those platforms, and it was a complicated maze to get to the top, with many escalators and mezzanines. If you have a train to catch from the High Speed platforms, give yourself 10-15 minutes to get from the station entrance to the platforms.

Once at the "classic" station, it's divided into 3 sections - the main, west, east.

And the platform numbers overlap, see this sign for example:

https://www.customwalks.com/images/uploads/blog/Bologna_station_signs_for_exit%2C_marked.jpg

There is a platform 1 in the main section (through tracks), a platform 1 in the east (Est) section (terminating trains), a platform 1 in the west (Ovest) section (terminating trains). So make sure you check the platform number very carefully if you're catching a train!

At Bologna Centrale, make sure to spot the signalling cabin! See here for what it looks like:

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EiLYk_KWkAAXoLE?format=jpg&name=large

Bologna is famous for its 3 T's - Tortellini, Torre, Tette (I have a fridge magnet of the 3 T's).

Tortellini - As mentioned in an earlier post, Bologna is the "fat man" of Italy. The origins of the Bolognese sauce and Tortellini. You need to try the Tortellini in broth (brodo di cappone).

Tortellini - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Torre - There are two towers near the main square of Bologna. They are Bologna's version of the leaning tower:

Two Towers, Bologna - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I didn't climb them since they were not free (I visited in December 2021).

Tette - well... you need to use google translate to see what it means. There's a statue in the main square, which you'll find surrounded by tourists with cameras:

Fountain of Neptune, Bologna - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

While you're at the main square, visit the Basilica of San Petronio, with an unfinished facade. It was free to enter when I visited, although no photography was allowed.

San Petronio, Bologna - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Another popular place is "La piccola Venezia" or "The Little Venice".
In an inconspicuous* wall on a random street (between the railway station and main square), there is a little window, which opens up to a view of a canal, resembling mini-Venice

The "Finestrella di Bologna" and the Little Venice in via Piella – Bologna Guide

The “Finestrella di Bologna” with over 19,000 posts on Instagram has become in a few years one of the most crowded attractions in the city.

www.bologna-guide.com

*Inconspicuous because visually, no-one will notice the little window on the wall, but in reality, there will be a queue of people waiting to look out the window. I suggest to visit either early morning or at night (though it would be dark at night). Alternatively go the the next street and view the canal from the opposite direction (i.e. standing in front of the pink building in this photo and looking back towards the photographer of the photo: https://www.bologna-guide.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Finestrella-di-bologna-1.jpg), though the view will be less pretty.

 

[30907]

Do you have time to do the historic Porrettana route to Florence and nip back on the HSL through the tunnel? Not done it, but recent article in TRE.

 

[Wolfie]

You might try the Mercato delle Erbe. Sort of an Italian version of Borough Market.

 

[Iskra]

My recollection of Bologna is that - the first time I went - I flew from Manchester. First thoughts were how chaotic it was, but a nice place. I then went by train to various places, including Naples, and returned to Bologna. I realised how quiet and "civilised" it was in comparison to other parts of Italy, especially Naples, which I liked anyway but it was a bit mad.
Higher prices means higher quality in Bologna anyway, don't cut off your nose to spite your face if you're only going to be there for a while, would be my advice.

There's a DESPAR supermarket to stock up with provisions on the left as you leave the station heading for the historical centre.

It has self-service tills as well which have an English option.

I found Bologna Centrale a really difficult station to navigate, having arrived in the HS section which is below and to the north of the classic station.
Lots of very crowded and narrow subway corridors to reach the main frontage.
I had a room in a nearby block (actually overlooking the railway to the east, where my EC train was parked overnight) which was a nightmare to access (keys, gates etc).
But once inside the proprietors were very friendly, set up breakfast ahead of normal time and insisted I try their home-made marmalade!
They also gave me directions to a supermarket nearby (not near the station), the most important purchase being a litre carton of excellent red for €1.50...

Thank you all for the words of wisdom, particularly on it being chaotic and hard to get around. Thankfully, I won't need to venture into the HS part of the station Always good to know there's a DESPAR too, they are useful stores.

Yes, Bologna Centrale was confusing to me when I first arrived as well. It's much more complex than the simple station building suggests.

As mentioned by the previous post, the High Speed platforms are many floors below the main station. I arrived in Bologna from those platforms, and it was a complicated maze to get to the top, with many escalators and mezzanines. If you have a train to catch from the High Speed platforms, give yourself 10-15 minutes to get from the station entrance to the platforms.

Once at the "classic" station, it's divided into 3 sections - the main, west, east.

And the platform numbers overlap, see this sign for example:

https://www.customwalks.com/images/uploads/blog/Bologna_station_signs_for_exit%2C_marked.jpg

There is a platform 1 in the main section (through tracks), a platform 1 in the east (Est) section (terminating trains), a platform 1 in the west (Ovest) section (terminating trains). So make sure you check the platform number very carefully if you're catching a train!

At Bologna Centrale, make sure to spot the signalling cabin! See here for what it looks like:

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EiLYk_KWkAAXoLE?format=jpg&name=large

Bologna is famous for its 3 T's - Tortellini, Torre, Tette (I have a fridge magnet of the 3 T's).

Tortellini - As mentioned in an earlier post, Bologna is the "fat man" of Italy. The origins of the Bolognese sauce and Tortellini. You need to try the Tortellini in broth (brodo di cappone).

Tortellini - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Torre - There are two towers near the main square of Bologna. They are Bologna's version of the leaning tower:

Two Towers, Bologna - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I didn't climb them since they were not free (I visited in December 2021).

Tette - well... you need to use google translate to see what it means. There's a statue in the main square, which you'll find surrounded by tourists with cameras:

Fountain of Neptune, Bologna - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

While you're at the main square, visit the Basilica of San Petronio, with an unfinished facade. It was free to enter when I visited, although no photography was allowed.

San Petronio, Bologna - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Another popular place is "La piccola Venezia" or "The Little Venice".
In an inconspicuous* wall on a random street (between the railway station and main square), there is a little window, which opens up to a view of a canal, resembling mini-Venice

The "Finestrella di Bologna" and the Little Venice in via Piella – Bologna Guide

The “Finestrella di Bologna” with over 19,000 posts on Instagram has become in a few years one of the most crowded attractions in the city.

www.bologna-guide.com

*Inconspicuous because visually, no-one will notice the little window on the wall, but in reality, there will be a queue of people waiting to look out the window. I suggest to visit either early morning or at night (though it would be dark at night). Alternatively go the the next street and view the canal from the opposite direction (i.e. standing in front of the pink building in this photo and looking back towards the photographer of the photo: https://www.bologna-guide.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Finestrella-di-bologna-1.jpg), though the view will be less pretty.

Thank you for the detailed response The signal cabin looks very similar to the one at Milano Centrale, but it's good to know there is a little enthusiast interest at the station. I will attempt to find and try that dish Thank you for the recommendations!

Do you have time to do the historic Porrettana route to Florence and nip back on the HSL through the tunnel? Not done it, but recent article in TRE.

Sounds good. I'll look into the feasibility of this, although a lot will depend on how punctual my flight is, so it could have to be an 'on the day' decision.

You might try the Mercato delle Erbe. Sort of an Italian version of Borough Market.

That sounds like my kind of place, thank you!

 

[LNW-GW Joint]

Another picture of the signal box...

 

[Zamracene749]

Ranzani13- https://www.pizzeriaranzani13.it/

Decent Italian craft beers, relaxed vibe and hands down absolutely the best pizza I've ever eaten. Anywhere, Ever!

 

[Iskra]

Ranzani13- https://www.pizzeriaranzani13.it/

Decent Italian craft beers, relaxed vibe and hands down absolutely the best pizza I've ever eaten. Anywhere, Ever!

That sounds perfect, although it’s a bold claim about the pizza