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Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway and Windermere cruise.

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DarloRich

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Over the Easter weekend my girlfriend and I stayed in the camper van at a campsite adjacent to Bentham Station. One of the days was allocated for a trip out and we chose a combined train journey in the short Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway and boat trip on Windermere.

This meant we had a pleasant drive of about an hour ( c.35 miles) into the lake district but as we headed in that direction the weather, iffy as we set off, got worse and worse. By the time we arrived in the lakes it was persisting it down in the time honoured bank holiday fashion! We considered bailing out but decided to crack on as things would surely improve. They didn’t.

Haverthwaite by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

We pulled up in the car park and while the tea brewed in the camper I sorted out the tickets. The railway has cleverly positioned itself as part of a lake district day out and offers a number combined tickets for a joint rail/boat journey or a visit to the Lakeland Motor Museum or the lakes Aqauraium along with your train ticket. We opted for the boat cruise and the full journey to Ambleside cost us £23 per person which is quite lot although other options were available. A return on the train only is £6.80 ( £2.70 for kids) and a family ticket is £19.50. Parking costs a few quid more but seems worth it for ease of access.

Haverthwaite by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

If you are driving I think the best option is to park at Haverthwaite station as it has a large car park and is adjacent to the A590 and is near Newby Bridge. If you are on public transport the station is served by the Monday to Saturday hourly Stagecoach X6 services running between Kendal and Barrow ( via Ulverston and Grange stations) and the irregular 6 services form Windermere station. On a Sunday I would give it a miss! Of course you could do the cruise from Ambleside or Bowness first and then get the train to Haverthwaite but parking at the north end of the lake can be hard at busy times.

Haverthwaite by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

The L&HR runs from Haverthwaite at the bottom end of the line via Newby Bridge to Lakeside at the southern end of Windermere and is just over 3 miles long. This is all that remains of a former branch line opened by the Furness Railway in June 1869. The line was served by local trains from the junction station at Ulverston on the Furness Railway's mainline between Carnforth & Barrow-in-Furness. The Furness Railway became part of the London Midland Railway in 1922 and in 1945 the line passed to British Railways. The line closed to passengers in September 1965, and to all traffic two years later. The 3.5 miles from Lakeside to Haverthwaite reopened as a heritage railway in May 1973. The railway still offers through ticketing to the Windermere steamers that have existed since the opening of the line in 1869.

The station was very busy with a number of coach tours disgorging their loads so we had a walk around the engine shed to get out of the rain and kill a bit of time. The L&HR seem to run a stripped down stock policy and seem not to offer the scrap yard style storage of demics and rotting carcasses offered on some lines which means it is very tidy. There are no big locomotives on the line with the majority of the engines being small 0-6-0 Hunslet “austerity” or former industrial tanks. On the diesel side there are a handful of shunters (03/11) a class 110 DMU (used on low season services) and 20214. The hauled stock amounts to 11 mki vehicles of which 6 were in service today

Haverthwaite by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

The jewels in the crown of the locomotive department are obviously the pair of BR Fairburn 2-6-4T‘s 42073 & 42085. Both were built at Brighton in 1950/51 and of the 277 built these are the only survivors. 42085 was out of traffic for an overhaul but 42073 was in service and was pulling a train from Lakeside into the platform as we walked towards the station buildings. As this is the headquarters of the line you will find a nice little café and a gift shop along with the ticket office and engine sheds.

Haverthwaite by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

Clearly such a short run wouldn’t overly tax the Fairburn but the 6 coaches of immaculately presented carmine & cream Mk 1s were well-filled on departure and we had to walk to the back of the train to find a seat much to the annoyance of the dog who promptly fell asleep in protest. The Fairburn tank struggled to get away on the greasy rails and slipped several times between the platform and the tunnel before finding some grip and slowly plodding on. The line immediately after the short tunnel was heavily canted (almost alarmingly so) and our speed was low as we navigated this section of line. The run is short but sweet lasting about 18 minutes with a short stop at the intermediate station at Newby Bridge and I am sure the views are nice on a good day. They weren’t today.

In what seemed like no time we were running into Lakeside station at the southern point of Lake Windermere where we would change for our streamer up the lake. The connections between the Windermere Iron Steamboat Company and train seem to work really well and a good number of passengers got off the train and wanted to board the boat which was due a few minutes after the train arrived.

Windermere by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

Soon a large white boat could be seen approaching through the gloom and it turned out to be MV Teal built by Vickers Armstrong at Barrow-in-Furness in 1936 for the London, Midland & Scottish Railway as part of a plan to update and improve their Windermere cruiser fleet. She was transported in sections by rail, reassembled at Lakeside, and launched on 4 July 1936. Teal operated until the end of the 1941 season, when she was laid up for the duration of the war. The service resumed in July 1945 and In 1948, ownership passed to the British Transport Commission, British Railways and subsequently Sealink. Services are now are operated by Windermere Lake Cruises Ltd. Today Teal can carry 533 passengers on three decks and we would be following in the footsteps of royalty as In August 1956, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip sailed on her from Ambleside to Bowness.

Windermere by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

Sadly the view as we trundled up the lake wasn’t great but the tea and biscuits went down well on such a cold and damp day. The journey is a long one as Windermere is the is the largest natural lake in England at 10.5 miles long, one mile wide and 220 feet deep. In the late 19th century, wealthy businessmen from Lancashire built grand mansions overlooking the lake, and many of these have now been converted to hotels. Other grand houses include Brockhole, between Ambleside and Bowness which is now The National Park Visitor Centre and Wray Castle which was the first Lake District holiday home of Beatrix Potter. All of the west shoreline of the lake is owned by the National Trust which means that side of the lake is not as developed and is more natural than the eastern shore. The Trust also owns Fell Foot at the southern end of the lake which they preserve as a country park and which is accessible by boat from Lakeside.

Windermere by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

The journey up the lake is split into 2 sections. The first takes about 40 minutes to travel between Lakeside and Bowness which is in the centre of the lake. Here we paused for about 10 minutes while people got on and off before we departed for the Ambleside at the northern end of the lake. This part of the journey takes about 50 minutes and was very pleasant. Sadly the weather meant that we didn’t disembark at the end of the run and instead headed straight back southas we didn’t fancy trudging about in the rain. On the return journey the weather improved to the extent that the sun put in a brief appearance. This meant we could move from the heated lounge to the open but covered deck on the top of the boat and enjoy a bit more of the view. We seemed to wait at Bowness for ages loading on all the passengers and there was a slight worry that we might miss the train but this turned out to be unnecessary as the service is integrated so the train will wait for a late running boat.

Lakeside by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

As we approached Lakeside the Fairburn could be seen simmering away in the platform and on disembarking it was clear there were a large number of passengers wanting to board with four of the carriages on the train booked out for coach trips. The train was really heavily loaded with every seat taken which must be a real bonus for the railway. The return journey was swift and we were soon back in Haverthwaite where we had time to see the locomotive taking on water and running round via a loop in a tunnel before making our way back to the campervan and heading back to the campsite.


Haverthwaite by DarloRich2009, on Flickr

The line might be short but coupled with a boat trip I think it offers good value and a nice day out, especially in good weather!
 
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DarloRich

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I do have pictures but continuing domestic issues mean i am unable to upload them. I will do so as quickly as i can.
 

Kite159

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Sounded like a good little day trip, weather aside

I look forward to the pictures when you get them uploaded
 

DarloRich

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I am back in the house following a long overdue overhaul now so hopefully soon.

The line is nice but I think the boat trip is needed to really make a day out. The railway has very cleverly positioned itself as part of the tourist trail and was very busy. The staff said they often carry several coach parties at once as part of a Lake District tour ( often only one way while the coach drives round the lake to collect them)
 

Techniquest

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I just finished reading this, the whole experience sounds awesome and I look forward to one day sampling it for myself!

Hope the domestic issues are easily overcome, the photos will be well worth the wait!
 

backontrack

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Sounds like a lovely day! I was on Windermere just before Easter - looks like i just missed you, though I was on the northern end!
 

Blindtraveler

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Lol, your Dog Darlo! A report close to my heart in so many ways this, the area is one of my favourites, I like boats and as a former caravanner with my parents who are still doing it bless them its great to read about someone elses adventures on the road.

I think if I could sea and drive I'de hire a motorhome or maybe own one as the ability to stop and as you did brew up a nice cuppa in a preserved railway carpark and just stroll over to the booking office before returning to my own tourist free haven appeals greatly.

Given that I can't, thanks for the bus jen. Anyone contemplating this day out should note that Stagecoach do a superb ticket called the Northwest explorer which is valid all the way from Dumfries to Liverpool and Bolton including services to Blackpool and all the express and tourist services in the Cumbria/the lakes
 

Calthrop

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DarloRich -- very interesting, and good reading -- thanks ! I've seen action on the L&HR, but not travelled on it.

A small and perhaps odd thing to focus on: but -- your description of the scene at many preservation venues, "scrap yard style storage of demics and rotting carcases". The word "demic" -- someone or something that's ailing -- hitherto, I'd only ever heard it in Manchester, from native Mancunians. Am wondering whether that was where you came upon it -- or is it current in other parts of the country? (I speculate that it might derive from shortening of the word "epidemic"??)
 

Ploughman

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DarloRich -- very interesting, and good reading -- thanks ! I've seen action on the L&HR, but not travelled on it.

A small and perhaps odd thing to focus on: but -- your description of the scene at many preservation venues, "scrap yard style storage of demics and rotting carcases". The word "demic" -- someone or something that's ailing -- hitherto, I'd only ever heard it in Manchester, from native Mancunians. Am wondering whether that was where you came upon it -- or is it current in other parts of the country? (I speculate that it might derive from shortening of the word "epidemic"??)

DEMIC quite common to the east of the pennines as well.
Intended meaning - Scrap or condemmed rolling stock.
 

Ploughman

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I am back in the house following a long overdue overhaul now so hopefully soon.

The line is nice but I think the boat trip is needed to really make a day out. The railway has very cleverly positioned itself as part of the tourist trail and was very busy. The staff said they often carry several coach parties at once as part of a Lake District tour ( often only one way while the coach drives round the lake to collect them)

Called in at Haverthwaite last year and the carpark was full midweek out of main season.
About 8 coaches in the drop off area / coach park with drivers in cafe on their break, prior to running to other end of lake for the next pick up.
 

DarloRich

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Lol, your Dog Darlo! A report close to my heart in so many ways this, the area is one of my favourites, I like boats and as a former caravanner with my parents who are still doing it bless them its great to read about someone elses adventures on the road.

He is my gf's dog and he is a very old Jack Russell now - 17 - with two replacement hips and knees, heart complaint, poor vision and chronic grumpiness so he gets tired. I think the walk up Ingleborough the day before might have had something to do with it. We had to carry him down!

I think if I could sea and drive I'de hire a motorhome or maybe own one as the ability to stop and as you did brew up a nice cuppa in a preserved railway carpark and just stroll over to the booking office before returning to my own tourist free haven appeals greatly.

You can "wild camp" almost anywhere in Scotland but not yet in England so we stick to campsites and good ones at that as we are still finding our way. It is good fun and lets us see the country quite economically ( apart from the cost of the van!)

Given that I can't, thanks for the bus jen. Anyone contemplating this day out should note that Stagecoach do a superb ticket called the Northwest explorer which is valid all the way from Dumfries to Liverpool and Bolton including services to Blackpool and all the express and tourist services in the Cumbria/the lakes

I don't know much about buses but looked at this one specifically because of the location. If I may suggest a route for you from Scotland might it be best to travel by train to Winderemere, get the bus (or a cab) down to Bowness and then the boat from there to the railway. The only issue is you are in the middle of the lake so might have to think about how to cover the whole length of the trip.

Called in at Haverthwaite last year and the carpark was full midweek out of main season.
About 8 coaches in the drop off area / coach park with drivers in cafe on their break, prior to running to other end of lake for the next pick up.

It must be a good earner for them. Even with say 20% off a ticket for group bookings the profits must be good. The guard said they often have 3 or even 4 coaches booked out for bus trips.

DarloRich -- very interesting, and good reading -- thanks ! I've seen action on the L&HR, but not travelled on it.

A small and perhaps odd thing to focus on: but -- your description of the scene at many preservation venues, "scrap yard style storage of demics and rotting carcases". The word "demic" -- someone or something that's ailing -- hitherto, I'd only ever heard it in Manchester, from native Mancunians. Am wondering whether that was where you came upon it -- or is it current in other parts of the country? (I speculate that it might derive from shortening of the word "epidemic"??)

It gets wide usage in the railway world to describe broken down items of rolling stock
 
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Blindtraveler

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Thanks Darlo. I would I think change at Penrith for the bus and again at Keswick accessing the North end of the lake. This not only solves that problem but also reduces the cost quite a bit. Woant happen for a while though as like yourself its Austerity measures just now due to my Wife leaving in January and my planned All Liner with Techniquest in June.

Your GF's dog sounds smashing and good on you both for taking him instead of leaving him with a friend or whatever.
 

Howardh

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Nice report! I'm fairly regular to that line, and always park at Lakeside for the return trip to Haverthwaite as the car park there is often clogged up with coaches - which seem to be absent at Lakeside. Also Lakeside seems to be more agreeable for hanging around - but better facilities for children at Haverthwaite.
Not very practical if you are combining train/boat though!
 

LWB

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Declaring interest here, the owners and staff at L&HR being good friends and I have worked on most of the Loco stock over 4 decades. The "demics" are generally given short shrift because storage is limited (and mostly of a linear nature beyond both tunnels) and also because it is a scenic touristy line. In reality very few Japanese and Chinese tourists (huge business due to Beatrix Potter connection) want to gaze on a Steamtown style wasteland. Also, something the length of SVR or NYMR would be of no interest to them so the shortness of the line is something of an asset! Theft was also a disheartening reason for moving stock on. Might as well weigh in the brasses yourself as let others take it in the night!
Shameless advertising here but I can recommend most strongly the Victorian Historic farm a few miles away at Old Hall Farm, Bouth. Owner Alex and Jack (Dibnah) have a fantastic set up there, repairing all manner of historic steam machinery. Alex is John Fowler Ltd {and Jack is Fred's son!) If the weather is halfway decent this is a great place for young kids (petting zoo, ice cream etc).
 
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DarloRich

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Declaring interest here, the owners and staff at L&HR being good friends and I have worked on most of the Loco stock over 4 decades. The "demics" are generally given short shrift because storage is limited (and mostly of a linear nature beyond both tunnels) and also because it is a scenic touristy line. In reality very few Japanese and Chinese tourists (huge business due to Beatrix Potter connection) want to gaze on a Steamtown style wasteland.

4 coach loads of Asian tourists suggest it is working!
 
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