openBVE class 101 released

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Wim G.P.R

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A excellent new addition to Open bve they are as well!

Just note you need to shut off the power to change gear on the Page Up and Down buttons.

On the rev counter you need to change up when the needle gets to the end of the yellow section and on hills change down when or before the needle drops back to the start of the yellow.

Just something a little different!

I knew there's a reason why I wanted to do one myself!
 

Aictos

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The 101 is certainly challenging to drive especially when I'm used to locos like 37s etc...or Second/Third Generation Multiple Units.

Still, will need to check out the new NWM - Thanks for the heads up, :)
 

Bill EWS

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The three DMU's are excellent. They look good and handle as a DMU should. When the revs reach the maximum in the yellow section you shut the controller, wait for thr4 reves to drop to the low end of the yellow section, move into the next gear then slowly open the controller so that you don't get a thump when the power catches up with the gearbox. You should try to get as smooth a change as possible. Where the gradient allows gear changes should be made at approx. 15, 25 and 35-40 mph. When speeds drop to around these speeds you should move down to the next gear setting or that the gradient and speed allow so that you are never forcing the power and the train will automatically speed up as the gradient eases and you can work back up through the gears again.

Well done everyone involved in producing these welcome units.
 

Wim G.P.R

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The three DMU's are excellent. They look good and handle as a DMU should. When the revs reach the maximum in the yellow section you shut the controller, wait for thr4 reves to drop to the low end of the yellow section, move into the next gear then slowly open the controller so that you don't get a thump when the power catches up with the gearbox. You should try to get as smooth a change as possible. Where the gradient allows gear changes should be made at approx. 15, 25 and 35-40 mph. When speeds drop to around these speeds you should move down to the next gear setting or that the gradient and speed allow so that you are never forcing the power and the train will automatically speed up as the gradient eases and you can work back up through the gears again.

Well done everyone involved in producing these welcome units.

A rather more technical post than mine Bill, should you be called Bill BR(W) then EWS?

I may have missed an a employer in the middle though!
 

strange6

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The three DMU's are excellent. They look good and handle as a DMU should. When the revs reach the maximum in the yellow section you shut the controller, wait for thr4 reves to drop to the low end of the yellow section, move into the next gear then slowly open the controller so that you don't get a thump when the power catches up with the gearbox. You should try to get as smooth a change as possible. Where the gradient allows gear changes should be made at approx. 15, 25 and 35-40 mph. When speeds drop to around these speeds you should move down to the next gear setting or that the gradient and speed allow so that you are never forcing the power and the train will automatically speed up as the gradient eases and you can work back up through the gears again.

Well done everyone involved in producing these welcome units.

I'll second that. It was a real art in driving these units smoothly and correctly. The driver had to know quite a lot about their engineering too.
 

tom1649

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5 Jul 2010
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Excellent! I had the original 101 for BVE2 but this is miles better with the working guages and everything. Once I got the braking and gear changes sorted I soon managed to get the unit to keep up with Sprinter timings without any problem on NWM.
 
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