Sri Lanka

[Iskra]

I'm very fortunate to have a couple of days in Colombo next year. I should be able to make one return train journey in this time on the nations railways. Two journeys seem to come up as the most scenic, from Fort station; the journeys to Galle and Kandy. Does anyone have advice as to which is best?

I am initially leaning towards Kandy, is there any logic to which trains are loco-hauled on this line?

Does anyone have any more general experiences of advice about travelling on Sri Lankan railways that they can offer? How safe is it, what are the on train catering options like (official/unofficial), what are the toilet facilities like and how easy is it to get tickets on the day?

Thanks in advance

 

[superalbs]

I'm very fortunate to have a couple of days in Colombo next year. I should be able to make one return train journey in this time on the nations railways. Two journeys seem to come up as the most scenic, from Fort station; the journeys to Galle and Kandy. Does anyone have advice as to which is best?

I am initially leaning towards Kandy, is there any logic to which trains are loco-hauled on this line?

Does anyone have any more general experiences of advice about travelling on Sri Lankan railways that they can offer? How safe is it, what are the on train catering options like (official/unofficial), what are the toilet facilities like and how easy is it to get tickets on the day?

Thanks in advance

Most trains to Kandy are operated with modern Chinese diesel units, with power cars.

Sri Lankan Railways are perfectly safe, and very enjoyable. Catering with snacks and drinks is available sometimes, but I can't tell if it is official. Occasionally, they can't get through the entire train due to locked doors, but they'll just step onto the tracks when stopped to reach other carriages.

Toilets are both squat and western style, and not the worst I've ever used. I'd recommend bringing hand sanitiser and toilet roll, as you won't find anything provided on-board.

Getting a reserved ticket on the day is basically impossible. But you can get an unreserved ticket at any time, which is super cheap (59p), yet crush loaded.

Probably best to plan in advance, and get a reserved ticket. Best class is Second Class Reserved, which has no aircon, meaning you can enjoy the opening windows and doors from the comfort of a less crowded carriage.

There's an official website that accepts UK cards too. This doesn't always offer all trains and classes though, such as the first class sleeper beds. Therefore, you may want to use 12go.asia. Book over 30 days ahead for best results - these tickets sell out quickly.

 

[MarcVD]

I have been in Sri-Lanka for a 3 weeks vacation in 2019.
I made 3 train trips, from Colombo to Anuradapura on the North line, from Peradenya to Nanu-Oya in tea country, and from Galle to Colombo. The trip in tea country was definitely the one I enjoyed the most. So I would vote for Kandy too. Don't miss the magnificent signal gantries in Peradenya ! Next week when I have access to my data storage I will try to post a picture or two.

 

[railfan99]

Yes, another vote for Kandy.

Plenty of manually operated signal boxes to control crossing loops. Semaphore signals aplenty, plus excellent scenery as you climb.

In 2016 I did a return trip with my wife from Colombo Fort to Kandy before joining a tour. Also went independently to Matale, a branch line from Kandy where we stayed the night for about GBP15.

It's a true older-style British railway. Great system.

 

[Iskra]

Most trains to Kandy are operated with modern Chinese diesel units, with power cars.

Sri Lankan Railways are perfectly safe, and very enjoyable. Catering with snacks and drinks is available sometimes, but I can't tell if it is official. Occasionally, they can't get through the entire train due to locked doors, but they'll just step onto the tracks when stopped to reach other carriages.

Toilets are both squat and western style, and not the worst I've ever used. I'd recommend bringing hand sanitiser and toilet roll, as you won't find anything provided on-board.

Getting a reserved ticket on the day is basically impossible. But you can get an unreserved ticket at any time, which is super cheap (59p), yet crush loaded.

Probably best to plan in advance, and get a reserved ticket. Best class is Second Class Reserved, which has no aircon, meaning you can enjoy the opening windows and doors from the comfort of a less crowded carriage.

There's an official website that accepts UK cards too. This doesn't always offer all trains and classes though, such as the first class sleeper beds. Therefore, you may want to use 12go.asia. Book over 30 days ahead for best results - these tickets sell out quickly.

Thanks for your information. Planning is not really an option as I will be arriving by sea; things can and do change because of the weather. I will have a vague plan, but I'll be buying on the day and may have to re-think if the planned schedule is impacted by outside events.

I have been in Sri-Lanka for a 3 weeks vacation in 2019.
I made 3 train trips, from Colombo to Anuradapura on the North line, from Peradenya to Nanu-Oya in tea country, and from Galle to Colombo. The trip in tea country was definitely the one I enjoyed the most. So I would vote for Kandy too. Don't miss the magnificent signal gantries in Peradenya ! Next week when I have access to my data storage I will try to post a picture or two.

Yes, another vote for Kandy.

Plenty of manually operated signal boxes to control crossing loops. Semaphore signals aplenty, plus excellent scenery as you climb.

In 2016 I did a return trip with my wife from Colombo Fort to Kandy before joining a tour. Also went independently to Matale, a branch line from Kandy where we stayed the night for about GBP15.

It's a true older-style British railway. Great system.

It sounds an amazing place, thank you both!

 

[Cowley]

Another vote for Kandy from me, although it’s been quite some years since I’ve been there.

It’s such beautiful journey once it starts climbing into the hills and the people are ever so friendly. It’s definitely not as manic as India for example.

 

[superalbs]

Thanks for your information. Planning is not really an option as I will be arriving by sea; things can and do change because of the weather. I will have a vague plan, but I'll be buying on the day and may have to re-think if the planned schedule is impacted by outside events.


It sounds an amazing place, thank you both!

Okay then, you'll be able to buy a ticket for unreserved third on the day. It will be insanely crowded, but it will only cost 60p.

 

[Iskra]

Okay then, you'll be able to buy a ticket for unreserved third on the day. It will be insanely crowded, but it will only cost 60p.

Sounds fun! Is there not unreserved 2nd? Or is 3rd effectively 2nd in the old British ‘big four’ kind of way?

 

[superalbs]

Sounds fun! Is there not unreserved 2nd? Or is 3rd effectively 2nd in the old British ‘big four’ kind of way?

Unreserved second is just paying more to stand up. But yes, it exists.

 

[railfan99]

the people are ever so friendly. It’s definitely not as manic as India for example.

Accurate. I visited India for three weeks in December 2019, 3.5 years after Sri Lanka.

While I had zero problems in either (SL: largely a group tour, unusual for me; India: independent travel), SL is a picnic compared to India. Just more relaxed.

 

[Bungle158]

Accurate. I visited India for three weeks in December 2019, 3.5 years after Sri Lanka.

While I had zero problems in either (SL: largely a group tour, unusual for me; India: independent travel), SL is a picnic compared to India. Just more relaxed.

True re India. The system is complex and the variety of trains and classes mindboggling. As just one example, the city of Bengalaru has a Central station, but also another major hub at Yesvantpur just out of the main downtown area.

Best advice is to research, use the Seat 61 site and note that current Indian city names can vary from the older form used by Indian Railways.

Planning is half the fun, but delays are frequent. If making changes in route, best to build in some recovery time

Edited to correct spelling error

 

[Iskra]

Unreserved second is just paying more to stand up. But yes, it exists.

Thanks! What I may do is once I have more information about my schedule; book tickets in advance as you suggest, but just be prepared to disregard them and buy walk-ups if necessary.

Accurate. I visited India for three weeks in December 2019, 3.5 years after Sri Lanka.

While I had zero problems in either (SL: largely a group tour, unusual for me; India: independent travel), SL is a picnic compared to India. Just more relaxed.

True re India. The system is complex and the variety of trains and classes mindboggling. As just one example, the city of Bengalaru has a Central station, but also another major hub at Yesvantpur just out of the main downtown area.

Best advice is to research, use the Seat 61 site and note that current Indian city names can vary from the older form used by Indian Railways.

Planning is half the fun, but delays are frequent. If making changes in route, best to build in some recovery time

Edited to correct spelling error

This is really useful, as I will be visiting India later in my trip, so I'm hoping to do a train journey there too. I'll be visiting Goa and Mumbai; Mumbai seems more promising for easy access to the rail network at first glance, but again much will depend on timings.

 

[sh24]

An hour spent at CST in Mumbai during the evening rush will be quite memorable

 

[superalbs]

Mumbai has a great network of commuter trains too, and if you travel outside of peaks and in First Class you will almost always have space.

 

[ainsworth74]

Planning is not really an option as I will be arriving by sea; things can and do change because of the weather.

Arriving by container ship? Or proper ferry?

 

[Iskra]

Arriving by container ship? Or proper ferry?

It's a Singapore-Oman cruise

 

[ainsworth74]

It's a Singapore-Oman cruise

Ah sounds fun! Thought you might be being really adventurous, doing a merchant ship is something on the bucket list for me

 

[Iskra]

Ah sounds fun! Thought you might be being really adventurous, doing a merchant ship is something on the bucket list for me

First time ‘East of Suez’ for me so I’m playing safe and keeping it simple.

Yes, I’d also like to do that one day, although my ultimate nautical bucket list item is an Argentina-Antarctica cruise.