Trains in Spain....advice please...

[stuartmoss]

Hi All,

After a bit of advice again, I've had to make a last minute change to a planned Summer holiday from Eastern Europe to Andalusia in Spain, anyway, I'm thinking of doing the following over 15 days...

Fly into Malalga (2 nights)
Train to Seville (4 nights) - day trip to Cadiz.
Train to Cordoba (4 nights) - day trip to Ronda.
Train to Grenada (3 nights)
Train to Malaga via Antequerra Santa Ana (2 nights)

Questions as follows:
1. Should I book my train tickets online in advance...if so how / where? I have in the past travelled from Madrid to Ciudad real without booking in advance, but I seem to remember large ticket office queues.
2. Are seat reservations mandatory?
3. Do any of the trains that I'll be travelling on have buffet / restaurant cars?
4. Is 3 nights too long in Grenada, or is it a decent sized city (obv the Alhambra)?

Any other tips / advice appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[30907]

Tickets - you pay extra for using a ticket office!
The RENFE site is not particularly user-friendly though I have successfully used it. Try for advice:
https://www.seat61.com/train-travel-in-spain.htm#How_to_buy_train_tickets_for_Spain
(I wonder whether a Spain Railpass would be worth it, though you are making relatively short journeys.)
Reservations - mandatory on MD/Avant and upwards
Catering - only Alvia/AVE/IC are likely to have any.
Stays - Granada and Cordoba are both worth a full day or equivalent for sightseeing, not sure about 2 each, whereas Seville IMO merits 3.
And bear in mind the heat!

PS IIRC advance booking is essential for the Alhambra - we actually planned a whole holiday in Sept 2019 around that!

 

[EnriqueEspaña]

You should book in advance for AVE tickets due to RENFE using a demand based system similar to airlines. It's also quite normal to turn up at the station and no seats are available to book (no standing on high speed /long distance services. Last time I was in Granada, I remember the trains weren't very frequent either, although I was travelling from Sevilla to Granda. For media distancia tickets, these are fixed prices so for flexibility you can research times and book at station (ticket vending machines have an English option too)

 

[LNW-GW Joint]

Seat reservations are mandatory, certainly on high speed and MD services.
There is also a check-in security process (luggage is scanned) for all high speed trains.
The Renfe site doesn't do connections very well, and it's problematic at a timetable change where trains just don't appear until close to the change date.
But it does work, if you accept the limitations, and delivers e-tickets.
I've found booking offices generally very helpful; on trains they are not keen for you to change seats, for some reason.
If it is relevant, seniors (over 60) get a good deal with the Tarjeta Dorada card - mostly 40% discount on ordinary (not advance) fares.
There are a confusing variety of high speed train types, and I think food is only available in 1st/Preferente class.

 

[dutchflyer]

some other hints:
1, from Cord to Ronda (did you check train times?) is quite long for 1 day. I would suggest making Ronda a stop between Mlg and Svl-and in that case the bus is much quicker and also much more frequent
2.same for Grn-Mlg: buses run ev hour (ALSA< a subsidiary of Nat. Express) and were also much quicker before GRnd became a single track hi-speed normal gauge line. It is still cumbersome and often time-eating to do the connection in Sa. Ana.
Trams run in Granada and Sevilla (very short centre shuttle) and in Malaga-underground more as a small-scale metro, and Cadiz is promised to get a combo tram/train since many yrs-should now open coming/this summer.
If you do not mind buses too much and want to see more: go along coast (get back from Ronda)-Marbella-Gribaltar (some british nostalgia)-and further along coast (Tavira, the worlds best know surfing) to Cadiz.
In febr I travelled there (and bought a new Dorada card) and trains were near empty. Spain still wants you to wear masks in all transportation

 

[rvdborgt]

There is also a check-in security process (luggage is scanned) for all high speed trains.

But only on bigger stations.

 

[30907]

some other hints:
1, from Cord to Ronda (did you check train times?) is quite long for 1 day. I would suggest making Ronda a stop between Mlg and Svl-and in that case the bus is much quicker and also much more frequent
2.same for Grn-Mlg: buses run ev hour (ALSA< a subsidiary of Nat. Express) and were also much quicker before GRnd became a single track hi-speed normal gauge line. It is still cumbersome and often time-eating to do the connection in Sa. Ana.

Depending what trains are actually running (ERT still has a fair number of "suspended" services, Cordoba-Antequera SA-Ronda looks very straightforward with about a 90min journey.

AIUI the old route out of Malaga via Bobadilla is much more scenic than the HSL - certainly do it one way, and through to Seville.
Granada-Antequera is curious, with a mix of HS and very low speed - or it was in 2019!

 

[Cloud Strife]

But only on bigger stations.

I have the feeling that Santa Ana doesn't have those security checks, though I can't be certain.

Any other tips / advice appreciated.

Granada is a two night job at the very most. I've done the Alhambra in the day, the city in the evening, and it was more than enough.

Seville is not worth four nights, two nights is more than enough. Likewise, Cordoba. Malaga might be worth three nights, because Antequera is a worthwhile day trip, as is Nerja.

What I'd recommend is cutting down the amount of time spent in those cities and try and visit smaller towns along the way if you can make public transport work. It can be tricky in Spain, but it's incredibly rewarding.

 

[yorkie]

Spain still wants you to wear masks in all transportation

I think food is only available in 1st/Preferente class.

I made several journeys with other forum members in Preferente class; we got great value fares by booking far in advance. Preferente class also allows the use of a seat selector at no extra cost; we got excellent seats as a result.

On each occasion were were offered two small but high quality bottles of wine, as well as light snacks including good quality sandwiches. Masks were only worn for just a few short minutes upon boarding until the food & drink was served and for a few seconds at the destination. Well worth paying the extra!

We also used the lounges which were far better than LNER's lounges, including a really good selection of snacks and great selection of drinks.

The ride quality is vastly better on their ICE style trains than the ugly duckling trains.

I had problems paying with my Halifax credit card; the Renfe site gave an unhelpful error. Workarounds are either to use PayPal (but this costs more due to currency conversion fees) or a different card if you have one.

e-tickets may be checked multiple times on entry to the platforms but are generally not checked on board as it works on the basis that you sit in your allocated seat and the staff know exactly where people are meant to be sat.

 

[_toommm_]

Worth bearing in mind that face coverings are still mandatory on public transport in Spain, too. I’m not sure about the long-distance services, but on the Metro and the FGC, they do have roving security enforcing this (from my experience two weeks ago they are incredibly nice if you forget to put it on or have it on your chin temporarily, but they do look scary as they have batons on their waistband).

 

[Cloud Strife]

Masks were only worn for just a few short minutes

Masks are mandatory on public transport in Spain.

I’m not sure about the long-distance services

Two weeks ago, I saw someone ordered to put the mask on by an employee of RENFE. He claimed to be eating and drinking, but the employee was having none of it. As it was translated to me, he was given a choice of putting on the mask or the train would be stopped at the first possible opportunity and the passenger removed from the service. The employee told him straight that he could lower the mask each time if he was eating and drinking, but otherwise it should remain on (and properly on).

The Spanish don't mess about, although as you say, they have no problem with someone making a genuine mistake.

 

[yorkie]

Masks are mandatory on public transport in Spain.

We were enjoying fine wines for the duration of the journey; the staff were happy to serve us and we had no complaints whatsoever. If you don't like it, that's your choice, but that's the reality, whether you like it or not

On the other journey we did, Zaragoza to Canfranc, plenty of water was consumed as it was a hot day. Again no complaints. It was good to see the Guard had an exposed nose

Two weeks ago, I saw someone ordered to put the mask on by an employee of RENFE. He claimed to be eating and drinking, but the employee was having none of it. As it was translated to me, he was given a choice of putting on the mask or the train would be stopped at the first possible opportunity and the passenger removed from the service. The employee told him straight that he could lower the mask each time if he was eating and drinking, but otherwise it should remain on (and properly on).

The Spanish don't mess about, although as you say, they have no problem with someone making a genuine mistake.

Like in the UK I am sure there are nasty maskivists in Spain and yes I've seen appalling videos of assaults occuring on members of the public by officials in Spain (though these were a while ago now) but fortunately I've not come across them.

I won't be going back to Spain until the mandate is lifted, as although we didn't encounter any maskivists during our journeys, I wouldn't want to risk it for any future occasion.

 

[Cloud Strife]

We were enjoying fine wines for the duration of the journey; the staff were happy to serve us and we had no complaints whatsoever. If you don't like it, that's your choice, but that's the reality, whether you like it or not

Honestly, it doesn't bother me :P I don't care if someone does or doesn't, not my business.

But the Spanish can be *really* tough on rules if they want to be, and they're also very inconsistent about how they enforce them. It's the same problem with many other aspects of Spanish society, though.

Like in the UK I am sure there are nasty maskivists in Spain and yes I've seen appalling videos of assaults occuring on members of the public by officials in Spain (though these were a while ago now) but fortunately I've not come across them.

There is one interesting aspect of European public transport that would never happen in the UK: the right to physically eject people from a vehicle. I don't like it and don't agree with it, but it is something to be aware of.

 

[Ant1966]

First thought, inland cities in Andalusia in Summer = VERY HOT. We spent a week in Andalusia in February; that was just right weather wise. 3 days in Granada and 3 in Cordoba.

I'd say there is more than enough to fill 3 days or more in either city; but depends what you are in to! Just wandering around the older parts of either city is great fun (though maybe at night in Summer).

Cordoba - obv the Mezquita, but the gardens of Reyes Cristianos (sp) were also lovely, once you'd worked out the weird pre booking system run by the local council. We also found some great bars, restaurants and indoor food markets, walks along the river, across the bridges etc.

Granada has even more to do; the Alhambra is a day on its own (pre book, as other have said; although the 'time' on your ticket is only for one section, the rest is at your own leisure).

The Albaicin and gypsy areas are fascinating, loved the little minibus services (streets too narrow for full size buses). Restaurants and bars also excellent here. Day trip to Sierra Nevada worth a look I think, although we didn't do that.

Trains: 100% pre book, as others have said. The 'HSL' from ASA still has the old line section in the middle, all trains were on time and comfortable, not sure of the stock. Interesting quirk is that the train from Granada to Malaga, whilst sold as one train, with one number, was actually 2 with a change at ASA.

Finally don't forget the Cercanias add on giving you free suburban trips (e.g. to Malaga airport) with some HS tickets (e.g. AVE, not Alvia I think). If you want any more gen on either city, or Malaga, then PM me.

 

[Revaulx]

I've just tried to book the AVE from Barcelona to Malaga for a Saturday in late August. The RENFE website says "The requested train is not available at the moment. We apologise for any inconvenience. Please try again later." against every train that day. Should that be translated as "They are all sold out", or is it actually worth trying again later? If the former, it's incredibly unhelpful; why can't it just say so? If I could know, I'd book flights.

 

[yorkie]

Have you tried the weekend before/after and/or the days before/after?

 

[Austriantrain]

Have you tried the weekend before/after and/or the days before/after?

When looking for a train Barcelona - Málaga for a Wednesday in late August, only the direct AVE is "not available" (there are tickets for services that connect in Madrid); for the following Saturday no train is.

That really points towards "fully booked", which since at the end of August, most of Spain will return from their holidays, would make sense. Of course, no guarantee that this is really what is happening.

Honestly, it doesn't bother me :P I don't care if someone does or doesn't, not my business.

But the Spanish can be *really* tough on rules if they want to be, and they're also very inconsistent about how they enforce them.

If there is a mask mandate, it should rightly be enforced. Scrap rules that don’t make sense, consistently enforce those that remain. It shouldn’t be those who follow them voluntarily that should suffer…

 

[yorkie]

If there is a mask mandate, it should rightly be enforced.

That wouldn't be "right" and it's unenforceable anyway. If a mandate is in place I will have plenty of drinks.

Scrap rules that don’t make sense, ...

Sadly Italy and Spain enjoy imposing rules that don't make sense.

But this is best discussed elsewhere.

When looking for a train Barcelona - Málaga for a Wednesday in late August, only the direct AVE is "not available" (there are tickets for services that connect in Madrid); for the following Saturday no train is.

I looked at a random weekday in August and found most itineraries were available.

However there is a warning symbol which brings up a message in Spanish which is not selectable so I can't easily translate it and I can't copy and paste it. Typical Renfe.. I'm guessing it's about engineering works or some other disruption.