Another European “Back in the Day from me. Some of you may have read a version of this a very long time ago in the magazine “European Report”. I don’t have the original text to hand, so this may differ in some respects. I also mentioned it in passing on the Year 2000 thread on this site …
For a bit of background, back in the year 2000, I was living in Reading and working in London. I timetabled freight trains through the Channel Tunnel, so I would have cause to visit various parts of Europe quite regularly. However, one commitment was that I had to be home on a Saturday because my wife taught music on a Saturday morning at the local music centre, which my children also attended. I had to be around to look after the youngest, then take her to her lesson mid-morning. This is a long way of explaining that getting any time off to go cranking on a Saturday was always going to be tricky. The Domestic Exit Visas were strictly controlled, and in very short supply!
Fortunately, whenever school holidays – such as half term – were on, the music centre was closed, so I might be able to escape a little more easily.
One trip I had been wanting to do for some time was a solo trip on the Ski Eurostar to Bourg St Maurice. Knowing that at half term I could get the Saturday morning off childcare duties, I tried to book the Friday overnight Eurostar from Waterloo to Bourg St Maurice and the Saturday overnight return (to cover two different sets, and to give me a chance to do some track bashing in France). Unfortunately – it being peak ski season – demand was very high, and the only trip available for booking was straight out on the Saturday daytime service and immediate return overnight. OK, that’s better than nothing.
A few days before I was due to depart, I was passing through Waterloo and dropped in to the booking office just to double check seat availability. By some miracle there had been a cancellation, so I was able to get on the Friday evening departure after all.
Friday 25/02/2000
3229 + 3230 1957 Waterloo – Bourg St Maurice via Tonbridge, Channel Tunnel, LGV Nord, Paris CDG, LGV Sud Est, Dijon.
I was able to book a first class seat at a table for two, so I had the full wining and dining experience before dossing fitfully through the night.
Saturday 26/02/00
Having arrived in Bourg St Maurice relatively punctually, I left the thronging hordes of would-be skiers to their own devices and chose a device of my own, namely:
22298 0819 Bourg St Maurice – Chambery
It soon became very clear to me that travelling in France’s main skiing area at the peak weekend of the ski season was not going to be an easy experience. This particular train was uncomfortably full but had nothing on what came next:
67360 + 67353 1106 Chambery – Valence.
This was the 0923 Geneve – Nice, and it arrived 20’ late. It was load 16, mostly old banger stock which only came out for peak weekends like this. The train was entirely full and standing throughout. Some compartments even had people standing in the middle of them. I managed to clamber on board and stood somewhere near the front for most of the journey, admiring the snow-covered scenery, and listening to the pair of diesels working hard. This was all new track for me too. Arrival in Valence was 45’ late, mostly station overtime due to the sheer number of passengers.
From Valence I had a particular train I wanted to cover. The 0901 Nice to Bruxelles Midi was diagrammed to be worked by one of the Eurostar sets which SNCF had withdrawn from Channel Tunnel duties in favour of using them on non-UK long distance services.
3203+3204 1349 Valence – Lyon Part Dieu.
This was a massive claw-back for me, as I had never managed to have this set in Eurostar service before the French reclaimed it for themselves. Job done! Now it was a simple case of bashing some more track and locos prior to my overnight home:
25247 1451 Lyon Part Dieu – Aix les Bains via Amberieu
7404 1642 Aix les Bains - Chambery
22298 (for the second time today!) 1750 Chambery – Albertville, reversed and reengined there to:
22217 1846 Albertville – Bourg St Maurice
So now all I had to do was get on board my waiting Eurostar to take me back to Waterloo. If only it was that simple.
It became apparent that the Eurostar from Waterloo had not long since arrived, several hours late. Given the degree of operational mayhem that the peak ski weekend was causing, I wasn’t entirely surprised. What did surprise me was the presence of a pair of class 67xxx diesels at Bourg St Maurice. I wonder how they got there …
I joined the long queue of passengers waiting to join the Eurostar. I noted that some of them were entirely fit, and were not wearing plaster casts, slings, etc. On the other hand, there were several who looked distinctly “travel worn”. I can understand why travel insurance gets very expensive if you want winter sports cover.
The train was formed of Eurostar 3223 + 3224, which was mildly annoying since I’d had that very same set only four days previously from Waterloo to Lille Europe whilst at work.
3224 + 3223 2208 Bourg St Maurice – Waterloo
We departed somewhat late. All was going well until we approached Albertville, where the train was scheduled to reverse. The guard came on and announced (in an outrageous French accent that Monty Python would have loved) “Lades an Gennelmen, please return to your seats. Due to an electric problem, we will ‘ave to turn off the lights during about one hour.”
Hmm, interesting.
What this meant (when translated from the original Franglais) was that the Eurostar set was incapable of working on 1500v DC. From Bourg St Maurice to Albertville was 25kV AC, so that was fine, but the Albertville station area and beyond was all 1500v DC. The cunning plan was this. The Eurostar would get the road into Albertville, then take power as far as the neutral section, and coast downhill to a gentle halt in the platform, where the pair of diesels I had seen earlier at Bourg St Maurice would attach to the rear and haul us as far as necessary to reach 25kV again. A great plan, slightly flawed in the execution. We got the road, took power, reached the neutral section, coasted … slowed down … and ground to a complete halt straddling the station throat! Job entirely stopped. After some delay, the pair of diesels – which had been following us down from Bourg St Maurice – attached to the rear of the train and propelled us into the station. That’s when another problem emerged. The 18+2 Eurostar was just within the maximum length for the loops at Albertville station, but when you attached a pair of diesels to one end, we were too long for the loop, fouling the points at one end or the other. Despite the late hour, there were still several more trains that needed to come into Albertville and run round or re-engine, so for the next hour or so we shuffled backwards and forwards a couple of coach lengths at a time, to clear one end of the loop for a train to arrive, then the other end for the loco to run round, then back to the other end again for the loco to attach and depart. This carried on until well into the small hours, by which time we were the only train left. Finally we were allowed to depart:
67217 + 67215 (hauling 3223 + 3224 dead) 2315 Albertville – St Andre le Gaz
To my surprise, instead of following the same route as we had on the outward run, from Chambery we took the branch line route direct to Saint Andre le Gaz, as that was the closest part of the 25kV network (a good call by SNCF Control). More new track for me. By this stage, the train had been entirely without heat or light for a couple of hours. There weren’t even any emergency lights working. I witnessed one of the stewardesses walking through the carriage carrying two disposable lighters, one in each hand, which she was flicking on and off to give her some basic lighting, but they were burning her fingers as the lighters got too hot. Night-time in the French Alps in February is not noted for being warm, so the train was getting painfully chilly.
Thankfully after about 90 minutes we reached St Andre le Gaz, power was restored, and our diesels detached. We joined the LGV Sud Est south of Lyon. That’s when the really impressive part began. By now we were hours late, so we had time to make up. Once we were on the LGV, the Eurostar was cranked up to 300 kph and left there for considerable periods. You may have heard the phrase “Going like hell in the night”. Well, that was how it was. We ran at maximum speed via Paris CDG, Lille, and Maidstone, and were only about half an hour late into Waterloo, which given the fiascos which preceded it was a very good recovery.
I wrote a full report of my experiences and sent it to Eurostar. I had a good working relationship with my colleagues there, so I was careful to word the report in such a way as to “seek learning experiences” and “provide a better customer environment” rather than trying to drop anybody in it. I believe Eurostar held an internal enquiry (or “Retour d’Experience” as our French colleagues would term it), and steps were taken to ensure that the sets heading for Bourg St Maurice were thoroughly tested beforehand in future, rather than taking pot luck that the sets would work as advertised.
An unexpectedly eventful weekend.